AquaSythe News & Updates

Vortech MP60W ES Propeller Pump by EcoTech Marine - COMING SOON

2010-09-07T14:33:00.000-07:00

Vortech MP60W ES Propeller Pump by EcoTech Marine.

The MP60 is engineered for tanks holding 120 to over 1,000 gallons with up to one-inch glass thickness. The MP60 uses the same award-winning technology that has made EcoTech Marine's VorTech line the number one brand of pump among reef aquarium enthusiasts. Capable of pushing 5,500/gph, the MP60 offers the smallest in-tank footprint for a commercially available pump.

"The MP60 satisfies a pent-up market demand for VorTech technology in larger tanks," said Tim Marks, president of EcoTech Marine. "Prior to this launch, aquarists with tanks having pane thicknesses greater than three-quarters of an inch had very few options for high-flow solutions. We are excited to provide this much desired solution for the most discerning and diehard hobbyists. Performance and quality are always our top priorities. This addition is a natural evolution for us, and perfectly rounds out our VorTech line of products."

The MP60 was designed to create the most flow in the smallest package possible. In EcoTech Marine's quest to continually raise the bar on reef flow technology, the unit runs quiet, cool and with minimal vibration. "This is a very proud introduction for us," added Marks.

The MP60's unmatched flow and out-of-the-box multi-pump wireless communication makes it the best value on the market for larger tanks. The MP60 leverages EcoSmart driver technology, introduced earlier this year, providing unmatched versatility, controllability and customization of flow patterns.

EcoTech Marine 's patented VorTech technology produces broad yet gentle flow while placing the motor outside the tank--preserving the beauty of the aquarium and enhancing the health of the tank's ecosystem.

For more information on our quality EcoTech Marine Pumps, Aquarium Wavemakers, and other aquarium supplies please visit us at www.aquasythe.com

Brightwell Aquatics Katalyst - Bioreactive Filtration Media for Nitrate and Phosphate Control in all Aquaria

2010-09-01T10:27:00.000-07:00

Brightwell Aquatics Katalyst - Bioreactive Filtration Media for Nitrate and Phosphate Control in all Aquaria.

Bioactive filtration media, providing an ideal colonization substrate and a suitable source of organic carbon to beneficial microbes responsible for uptake of nitrate and phosphate.

Helps decrease latent organic material, and hence nitrate and phosphate concentrations, in aquarium, greatly simplifying and improving nutrient control relative to methods based solely upon using vodka or other alcohol/sugar solutions as organic carbon sources.

May be used with MicroBacter7 and/or as part of a low-nutrient approach to aquarium husbandry.

Improves water clarity through re-mineralization of latent dissolved organic compounds present in system.

Safe for use in all freshwater fish tank and marine aquarium, including planted and reef systems.

Made in the USA. Sold by mass, not volume; 1 g = ~1.6 ml of competing media.

Technical Background:
In all aquaria, it is prudent to establish a stable nutrient budget in which the rate of nutrient export is not greatly exceeded by the rate of nutrient input, and vice versa; in the proper physical and chemical conditions, the former imbalance leads to increased presence of nuisance organisms such as filamentous algae and cyanobacteria, whereas the latter leads to malnourished aquarium inhabitants. The nutrients of greatest concern to most aquarists are nitrate and phosphate, both of which require active removal and/or re mineralization in aquatic habitats to ensure that they do not exceed concentrations that are deemed as safe for the ornamental organisms inhabiting those systems, or that would otherwise impact the appearance of the system, itself. KATALYST provides a static surface for colonization by beneficial microbes, while at the same time providing them with a source of organic carbon, which is required for the uptake of nitrogen and phosphorus compounds (including nitrate and phosphate, respectively).

In this fashion, KATALYST improves nutrient-uptake efficiency relative to systems employing only live rock, live sand, and/or inert plastic material as a substrate for microbial colonization. The colonization of KATALYST with the appropriate types of nutrient-remineralizing microorganisms, such as those found in MICROBACTER7, serves to deplete existing concentrations of dissolved organic material from the aquarium. Instructions and Guidelines: KATALYST should be housed in a media reactor, canister filter, or fluidized-bed reactor with a means of controlling water flow through the media bed, and with a pre-filter in place to restrict particulate material from entering the reaction vessel. Moderate water flow will discourage the accumulation of latent organic material in the media bed, itself, and will improve overall results.

Dissolved oxygen concentration and/or pH in the aquarium may temporarily decrease when new media is added; ensure that adequate aeration of water is employed at all times when using KATALYST, and monitor and adjust pH as necessary.
In marine aquarium, maintain operation of protein skimmer at all times to ensure that adequate degassing and oxygenation of water is taking place. Systems with [NO3-] and/or [PO43-] <5 ppm and 0.02 ppm, respectively: employ ~1 g of KATALYST per 2 US-gallons of water in aquarium system. Add 1 ml MICROBACTER7 per 20 US-gallons in system daily for first 4 weeks to seed KATALYST media.
In systems with elevated concentrations of these nutrients, employ up to twice the afore-mentioned mass and volume, respectively, of KATALYST and MICROBACTER7. Allow at least 4 weeks for media to become adequately colonized for significant changes in nutrient concentrations to become evident.
When nutrient concentrations drop below the target values (user-defined), decrease the daily dosage of MICROBACTER7 to maintain these levels. Replenish KATALYST media as necessary to counter gradual dissolution (on the order of months) that is the result of microbial consumption of the material. The rate of media deterioration is largely related to the nutrient load in the system: the higher the rate of nutrient input, the more quickly the media will be consumed by microbes.

For more information on our quality aquarium additives, aquarium filter media, and other aquarium supplies please visit us at www.aquasythe.com

Coming Soon - Reef Octopus SX Protein Skimmers

2010-08-19T00:38:00.000-07:00

Direct replacement for popular Reef Octopus Extreme line. Reef Octopus SX protein skimmers come with improved drain valve design and brand new Sicce pumps.
Powered by Italian made Sicce PSK-600 & PSK-1000 pumps. An integrated removable bubble plate to help reduce turbulence within the skimmer which helps build a dense head of foam. Extra-wide plumbing and necks in the design to allow for more air flow.
Integrated Gate Valve output allows precision adjustment of water flow. Improved venturi design for the Sicce pumps increases air intake.
Features a brand new Star pin wheel impeller.

Available 09.15.2010

Four Models Available:

* Reef Octopus SX160
* Reef Octopus SC200
* Reef Octopus SX250
* Reef Octopus SX350

For more information on our quality protein skimmers and other aquarium supplies please visit us at www.aquasythe.com

AquaSythe.com Coupon Code for January, 2010

2010-01-10T11:45:00.001-08:00

Save 5% on your entire order at www.aquasythe.com
Use coupon code: AS5

KZ Fiji Purple High Output T5 Lamps by Korallen Zucht

2009-12-14T01:04:00.000-08:00

Novel T5 high performance tube with blue-red spectrum. We recommend to use in proportion of 1:2 to our Coral Light. Stony corals enhance colors after 14-20 days especially in pink, purple and red.
Growth of algae will not be increased.

Four Sizes Available: 24" (24W), 36" (39W), 48" (54W), & 60" (80W)

For more information on our quality Aquarium Lighting and other Aquarium Supplies please visit us at www.aquasythe.com

COMING SOON - Sicce Syncra Circulating Water Pumps

2009-12-14T01:02:00.000-08:00

Thanks to of 35 years of experience, Sicce`s Syncra Silent pumps are equipped with a synchronous motor and an advanced rotor which makes the pumps 100% silent. International patents and extensive research and development insure all Sicce pumps are state of the art for efficiency and performance.

Inlet:
3/4" threaded
Use hose size: 21mm x 26.5mm

Outlet:
3/4" threaded
Use hose size: 21mm x 26.5mm
A new range of pumps which ensure high energy savings, quiet operation, ergonomic design, powerful performance, resistance to harsh conditions, and are reliable.

Syncra Silent, with their innovative technology, are versatile with a range uses.

They are ideal for freshwater fish tanks and salt water aquarium, protein skimmers, calcium reactors, indoor & outdoor fountains, Aquarium Chillers, and all submersible and inline applications which require high performance and total silence.

Thanks to Sicce's 35 years of experience, Syncra Silent are equipped with a synchronous motor and an advanced rotor which makes them efficient and silent . . . ``even more than a fish!``

Advantages of Synchronous Motors by Sicce
Synchronous motors have the following advantages over non-synchronous motors:
- Speed is independent of the load, providing an adequate field current is applied.
- Accurate control in speed and position using open loop controls is possible.

Their power factor can be adjusted to unity by using a proper field current relative to the load.
A capacitive power factor, (current phase leads voltage phase), can be obtained by increasing this current slightly, which can help achieve a better power factor correction.

- Their construction allows for increased electrical efficiency when a low speed is required.

- Better Performance.

- Higher Head Pressure per watt

- Higher Flow Per Watt

- More efficient

- Maximum energy conservation and lower electric bills

- Quiet Operation below 30db.

- Much Smoother Rotation

- Less heat transfer

- Fewer vibrations

- Programmable Controls are made possible for automatic speed regulation.

- Rotors can be made smaller than asynchronous motors with better performance

For more information on our quality Aquarium Water Pumps, Fish Tank Powerheads, and other Aquarium Supplies please visit us at www.aquasythe.com

COMING SOON - Sicce Voyager 2,3, & 4 Flow Pump 800-1600 GPH

2009-12-14T01:00:00.000-08:00

Features:

- 800 - 1,600 gallons per hour
- 7 - 14 watts
- CE & UL listed
- 3 year warranty
- 360 degree pump rotation
- Adjustable pump body, rotates and tilts

- Support w/ magnets and suction cups
- Adjustable deflector
- Water capacity regulator

The Voyager is the NEW stream pump for marine aquarium, reef aquarium, and fresh water aquarium, with flow rates up to 1,600 gallons per hour. Thanks to the exclusive magnetic support, it can be positioned anywhere: on the sides, behind the tank, and around the aquarium corners. Its support permits it to reach the widest angulations: up to 180 degrees vertically and 360 degrees circulatory with endless orientation possibilities. The Voyager's versatility in movement and positioning makes it possible to hide it anywhere, always assuring optimal performances. The rotation of the front ring nut allows you to regulate the flow, recreating faithfully the effect of marine currents and satisfying even the most particular of your corals needs. And with the most durable rotor and shaft, the unique bidirectional design of the rotor assures that the pump always starts in the correct sense, avoiding the annoying noises provoked by an inversion of the sense of circulation. The rotor and shaft of the Voyager are wear-resistant beyond compare! Most suction cups applied in a salt water fish tank become stiff with time, compromising their hold and causing the pump to become unstable. The exclusive magnetic support for the Voyager is long-lasting and reliable and is ideal for glasses of 15mm width.

The Voyager can be used in fresh water aquarium. In fact, it can be used to raise the deposits from the bottom of the tank for better filtration, contributing to cleaner and clearer water.

Maximum inclination, flexibility, silence & reliability - all in one unit!

For more information on our quality Aquarium Water Pumps, Fish Tank Powerheads, and other Aquarium Supplies please visit us at www.aquasythe.com

COMING SOON - Sicce Voyager 1 Flow Pump With Rotating Deflector 607 GPH

2009-12-14T00:58:00.000-08:00

Features

Features:
- 265 to 607 gallons per hour
- 8 watts
- CE & UL listed
- 3 year warranty
- 360 degree pump rotation
- Adjustable pump body, rotates and tilts
- Support w/ magnets and suction cups
- Adjustable deflector
- Water capacity regulator

The Voyager 1 is the NEW Patented stream pump for marine aquarium, nano reef tank, and fresh water aquarium, with flow rates ranging from 265 to 607 gallons per hour. Its main feature is an innovative 360 degree rotation system, directing water flow thanks to 4 types of regulation:
1) of the flow rate
2) of the flow direction
3) of the speed of the rotation of the deflector
4) and a 360 degree rotation of the pump support

All of these allow the the Voyager to perfectly simulate the marine streams!

The Voyager can be used in fresh water aquarium. In fact, thanks to innovative flow deviator and rotation system, it is useful to raise the deposits from the bottom of the tank, for better filtration, contributing to cleaner and clearer water. The pump is furnished with 4 suction cups and it is predisposed for the application of 3 couples of magnets for a greater adherence to the glass (up to 15mm thickness).

For more information on our quality Aquarium Water Pumps, Fish Tank Powerheads, and other Aquarium Supplies please visit us at www.aquasythe.com

TRUE TEMP DELUXE Titanium Aquarium Heaters by JBJ

2009-12-14T00:56:00.000-08:00

JBJ introduces the TRUE TEMP digital heater controller and titanium heating system. The TRUE TEMP is the most complete aquarium heating system to date with the most advanced features that set it apart as the leading heater for professional hobbyists.

Our digital microprocessor boasts amazing +/- 0.5 F accuracy, a calibration setting, indestructible titanium heating element with thermal shut off, smart memory chip, LED heating indicator, magnetic heater/probe holders, safety guard, remote temperature probe, and a large constant LED display of the current temperature.

Maintaining the correct temperature for tropical fish may be the single most important factor for a successful aquarium. Since fish do not have the ability to regulate their own body temperature, it is crucial that we can provide consistent water temperatures with minimal fluctuations.

Majority of fish cannot cope with stress from constant temperature fluctuations, which leads to a compromised immune system. This increases the probability of avoidable diseases, parasites, and bacterial infections.

ADVANCED FEATURES

True Temp Titanium 2 100% DIGITAL OPERATION
Don’t be fooled, some controllers still incorporate analog dials and knobs without the precision accuracy of TRUE digital controllers. Our advanced microprocessor constantly reads and displays the correct temperature to a tenth of a degree with a large LED display. Easy push buttons make setting your desired temperature simple and easy.

TITANIUM
The perfect titanium submersible element for fresh or saltwater aquarium. Virtually indestructible with the benefits of fast heat transfer without any corrosion. Integrated thermal shut off and out of water safety mechanism.

REMOTE TEMPERATURE PROBE
Most aquarium heaters have an integrated temperature probe within the same heating element. This can lead to false readings and premature ON/OFF cycles. The TRUE TEMP digital controller is equipped with a remote quick disconnect temperature probe that can be placed up to 5 feet away from the heating element for a comprehensive temperature measurement of the total volume of water. Quick disconnect temperature probe grants easy replacement without the need to replace the entire controller in the event it fails.

Safety GuardSAFETY GUARD
All titanium heating elements are securely placed inside our safety guards that protect you and your livestock from the heating core. Our flow thru design grants continuous water contact without interruption.

MAGNETIC HOLDERS
Include innovative magnetic heater and temperature probe holders that replace outdated and unreliable rubber suction cups that constantly lose their hold. Easily place your heater vertically, horizontally, or at any angle you please with long lasting stability.

CROSS REFERENCE
Have you ever noticed that majority of fish tank heaters cannot be calibrated. Often times, errors do occur during the calibration process. The ability to cross reference ensures your temperature is accurate and always correct.

SMART MEMORY CHIP
An integrated smart memory chip will restore the previous temperature set point and calibration to the last stored setting once the power returns after a failure. This alleviates having to manually reset settings forever.

For more information on our quality Aquarium Heaters, Aquarium Controllers & Computers, and other Aquarium Supplies please visit us at www.aquasythe.com

JBJ 28 Gallons Nano Cube with High Output LED Fixture with FREE STAND

2009-12-14T00:54:00.000-08:00

JBJ introduces the newest innovation for the popular 28g Nano Cube Series. Our high intensity LED Aquarium Lighting illumination system delivers the power of halides and the broad coverage of T5 lighting with over 10x the lifespan. It requires less energy consumption, is cool running and offers beautiful shimmering while being eco-friendly.

ADVANCED FEATURES
LED Illumination
High intensity LED aquarium lighting offers the ability to dramatically increase PAR (Photosynthetically Active Radiation) which designates the spectral range from 400 – 700 nanometers for the growth of photosynthetic organisms while lowering energy input. 28g nano led 424 Hour Light Cycles

Our new canopy offers around the clock illumination all powered by individual power cords

* Daylight – 25 x 3 Watt – 14K
* Dawn/Dusk – 4 x 3 Watt – Actinic/466nm
* Moon – 2 x 1 Watt – Nite-Vu/456nm

Time to Change Lamps?
Impressive 50,000 hour lifespan with a 30% reduction in output.
You won’t need to change lamps for at least 10 years* # Based on 10 hours a day

Going Green Safely
LEDs do not produce any ultra-violet radiation that is harmful for living organisms and do not contain any toxic mercury that is harmful for the environment. These solid state components are extremely durable and prevent accidental lamp breakage through handling associated with fluorescents. Consuming less energy puts less greenhouse gas emissions into our surroundings….

Beautifully Efficient
Our 89 watt LED system provides comparable PAR output to our 150 watt HQI – 14K canopy system, while consuming approximately 40% less energy.. Enjoy the mesmerizing shimmering of all 3 light cycles generally only found in nature.

Since LEDs turn on to full brightness without having to warm up, you can instantly light up your aquariums without the wait. These revolutionary diodes radiate heat upwards and away from the water to reduce unwanted heat transfer that can be detrimental for aquarium livestock.

28g nano led 4
Integrated Cooling System
The secret to our cool running top is our artistic canopy which houses an efficient aluminum heat sink for fast heat dissipation. All canopies are made from Flame Retardent ABS Plastic. The 4 cooling fans automatically turn on/off with the main reef lighting system. A thermal protector is also added to automatically shut of the lighting system in the event the fans fail, it will automatically turn back on once temperatures reach safe conditions.

Easy Feeding
New feeding lid is lighter than the previous full front lid. Grants quick and easy access for feeding and retrieving water samples without lifting the entire hood.

28g nano led 5Smart Filtration
The aquarium filter starts as water enters the center overflow. The water is directed into our 3-Stage Filter Media Basket, which is installed with a mechanical sponge, chemical activated carbon, and biological ceramic rings.

Our unique 3-Stage Filter Media Basket can host a variety of chemical medias to suit your needs. Cleaning is especially easy, since all you have to do is lift up on the basket handle and watch the water drain out the bottom for a simple and dry filter change. All baskets have a sliding door for added convenience.

28g nano led 6Nothing to Hide
Our newly redesigned filter basket is now transparent for easy refugium conversions. Simply add macro algae (eg. Chaeto) into chamber one and chamber two. We recommend leaving the activated carbon in chamber three with a small piece of the mechanical sponge before the water exits to prevent algae clogging pumps.

28g nano led 7Creating Motions in Captive Oceans
Our redesigned Ocean Pulse Duo now incorporates a memory chip for flawless performance after a power failure.

Your wavemaker creates turbulent currents for a more natural reef environment. You can set it from 10 seconds to 6 minute alternating cycles. Water is returned via (2) directional return nozzles on each side of the center overflow for even natural currents.

28g nano led 8Contemporary Design
Our 2nd generation stand is the perfect complement to our 28g Nano Cube Aquarium. It offers a chiller storage compartment with pre-installed side vents for needed airflow and a shelf for storage.

This contemporary design lifts the aquarium off the pedestal with 4 chrome cyclinders to showcase your living reef.

SPECIFICATIONS:

* Product Name: 28g Nano Cube - LED
* Item No: MT-601-LED
* Tank Volume: 28 gallons
* Glass Thickness: 6mm
* Accela Pumps: (2) x 266 gph / 16 Watt
* Cooling Fans: (4) 3000 rpm / Ball Bearing Type
* Tank Dims: 18” x 22” x22” high
* Optional Stand: 18” x 22” x 32” high
* Lighting Type: Light Emitting Diode
* Thermally Protected
* Warranty: 1 Year

JBJ Cabinet Stand for 28 Gallon Nano Cube Aquarium

Dimensions: 18" x 22" x 32" with vented chiller storage compartment

For more information on our quality Aquarium, Saltwater Fish Tanks, and other Aquarium Supplies please visit us at www.aquasythe.com

AERO FORCE Hang-On Protein Skimmer by CPR Aquatics

2009-12-14T00:51:00.000-08:00

AERO FORCE Hang-On Protein Skimmer by CPR Aquatics

CPR is pleased to announce the newest skimmer in the popular hang-on line, the Aero Force. The Aero Force is a new dual body, recirculating protein skimmer designed for reef aquariums. The Aero Force includes a feed pump and skimmer pump for everything needed to start up on a salt water aquarium.

FEATURES:

* Recirculating design
* Removable dual-body construction
* Quiet, energy efficient operation- only 8Watts total
* Easy to install, hang-on-the-back design
* Minimal maintenance needed
* Degassing water return with sponge reduces microbubbles from returning to the tank
* Adjustable collection cup
* Rated for tanks up to 75 gallons (depending on the bio-load of the tank)

Aero Force Body Size: 7.5" wide, 3.25" deep, 17" height

For more information on our quality Protein Skimmers and other Aquarium Supplies please visit us at www.aquasythe.com

Now watch a short video of the Aero Force in action.

Eco Tech Marine Releases Developement Kit for Third Party Aquarium Controller

2009-12-14T00:48:00.000-08:00

EcoTech Marine, the company that revolutionized the reef aquarium propeller pump, has announced the release of a development kit for third-party aquarium controller companies for its award-winning VorTech line. Although no firm release date has been established by manufacturers, stay tuned for announcements as controller companies begin to bring this desired technology to market.

“We are extremely excited about this development,” says Tim Marks, president of EcoTech Marine. “While the VorTech wave driver already provides extensive functionality right out of the box, this enables customers to integrate our market-leading flow technology with their lighting, dosing, pH and other systems. We look forward to enabling VorTech customers to be able to fully customize and control their pump using the aquarium controller of their choice.”

In addition to offering customizable controllability of the VorTech remotely through your controller, EcoTech customers will be able to download firmware updates and be remotely updated as to the operating conditions of the VorTech. The vast benefits of the controller are emerging as companies take interest and start working with the development kit.

EcoTech's development kit is now available to the industry's leading controller companies and together we are making the necessary arrangements to bring controller interfaces to production. “We have heard our customers' request and worked diligently to bring a solution that will maintain the same level of quality and technological superiority that you have come to expect from us,” said Marks.

The patented VorTech technology produces unmatched broad yet gentle flow while placing the motor outside the tank—preserving the beauty of the aquarium and enhancing the health of the tank’s ecosystem. With all the electrical components outside the aquarium and a variety of easy-to-program modes, the VorTech is the safest, most versatile pump on the market.

For more information on our quality Aquarium Water Pumps, Fish Tank Powerheads, and other Aquarium Supplies please visit us at www.aquasythe.com

New Coral from ORA - Ice Tortuosa

2009-11-06T10:21:00.000-08:00

The ORA™ Ice Tort has the typical Tortuosa branching growth form with a deep sea green base and glowing baby blue branch tips. This coral may look similar to the standard Tortuosa that we sell, but rest assured it is not the same thing. In addition to a different color pattern, this slow growing variety has thicker and considerably longer branches than its more common counterpart. The contrast of the dark base, blue polyps with green rims and almost white tips is stunning. Interestingly, all of the Ice Torts in the ORA greenhouse spawned 2 weeks ago.

First Glimpse of Fluval G3 and G6 Canister Filters

2009-09-08T20:28:00.000-07:00

Hagen announced last week that the Fluval G series filter would be first seen this week at the Hagen Germany and UK shows this week, September 4th and 6th respectively. So now, in anticipation of that launch, we’d like to offer some background information on the G series and how it came to be.

Over 2 years ago, Hagen and Fluval set an incredibly ambitious goal to develop and create the perfect aquarium filter. So over those 2 years via an independent research agency, Hagen held numerous consumer focus groups around the world, conducted online surveys and spoke to hundreds of retailers and fishkeeping experts.

The point of this massive investment in consumer research was to understand what the modern aquarist expects from an ideal filter. While aquarium filter technology has not changed in a major way in the last 20 years, that is all about to change as the Fluval G will launch aquarium filtration into the 21st century.

More to come....

Discus, King of the Aquarium

2009-08-16T18:16:00.001-07:00

Alternative names

Discus, King of the Aquarium

There is a huge array of various colors now created through selective breeding, see them here.

Synonyms

Symphysodon discus

Sexing

These fish are not easy to sex visually.

Tank compatibility

Be cautious with what fish you put with Discus, as they will not tolerate most bacteria, which many fish such as Gouramis may produce. Careful selection is important, as larger fish such as the Angel, or Plecostomus may injure the discus, while smaller tankmates such as Neon Tetra, Cardinal Tetra, Cherry Barb, etc., may be considered food. Entirely peaceful fish such as Corydoras can make good tankmates with Discus.

Diet

High protein diet is a must. Discus are cautious when accepting new foods. mysis shrimpkrill are excellent foods. It has been suggested that Bloodworms only be fed to adult discus and only sparingly. The worm's rough carapace can cause constipation if overfed, which can cause mortality especially in juveniles. Caution should be taken with frozen brine shrimp, as they dissolve, they tend to overly cloud the tank. Cloudy water from food may lead to sickness or death of your discus. and

Environment Specifics

This fish requires the highest standards of water quality. A large tank with still or slowly flowing water is required. Discus prefer a planted aquarim but care must be taken to provide plants that can survive the high temperature of the water. Tanks for Discus generally need bi-weekly water changes of 20%-30% to ensure that water quality is kept pristine. The pH must be kept in check and stable. They must have a low pH and soft water. Many keepers accomplish this through peat filtration.

Behavior

If left in groups, ranging from 2-4, one dominant discus may self-proclaim itself as the leader, bulling around other discus. Having a number greater than five will usually thin out the chain of dominance. Discus will usually leave fish too big to eat, alone.

Identification

Wild discus are normally murky brown in color, although some sort of color and/or pattern may be visible. Captive bred discus are, for the most part, exceptionally colorful, rivaling even some of the most beautiful marine fish. This is usually caused by selective interbreeding. It has been said a discus may interbreed several times before defects begin to show.

Just Published : Baensch Paper on Breeding the Rare Centropyge debelius

2009-08-16T17:58:00.000-07:00

This month’s, the Journal of the World Aquaculture Society, features a terrific must-read article by Frank Baensch and Clyde Tamaru, entitled Spawning and Development of Larvae and Juveniles of the Rare Blue Mauritius Angelfish, Centropyge debelius (1988), in the Hatchery.

A teaser shot of the Centropyge debelius lifecycle, from larvae to adult. Baensch 2009.
Frank is best [...]

This month’s, the Journal of the World Aquaculture Society, features a terrific must-read article by Frank Baensch and Clyde Tamaru, entitled Spawning and Development of Larvae and Juveniles of the Rare Blue Mauritius Angelfish, Centropyge debelius (1988), in the Hatchery.

A teaser shot of the Centropyge debelius lifecycle, from larvae to adult. Baensch 2009.

Frank is best known in the hobby for his aquaculture venture Reef Culture Technologies, often known by the acronym RCT. This new 15 page study highlights Frank’s success with RCT at breeding the incredibly rare C. debelius in captivity, sharing every detail such as water temperature, feeds, survival, growth and maintenance. Did you know the original parents of the RCT Debelius were originally owned by a Japanese Aquarist for 5 years prior? Frank received the fish in 2005 and the rest is history.

This article is a must read for the marine breeding enthusiast and / or angelfish nut. Check out the abstract for more information:

This study documents the rearing and life history stages of the rare blue Mauritius angelfish, Centropyge debelius, from spawning of eggs through sexual maturity. A C. debelius pair was maintained at our facility for 22 mo. The pair was conditioned to spawn for a 4-mo period in the fall of 2005 and a 4-mo period in the summer of 2006 using water temperature and photoperiod manipulation. Continuous spawning was achieved at water temperatures between 22 and 24 C and a photoperiod of long day (LD) 13.5:10.5. Over a 124-d period, the female produced 97 spawns, 59% of which resulted in fertile eggs. The average fecundity per spawn was 237 eggs (range 13-813 eggs). Fertility of all preserved spawns averaged 19.0 ± 19.8%. Larval rearing attempts using wild caught zooplankton and Artemia nauplii resulted in a total of 10 C. debelius juveniles raised through metamorphosis with an average larval survival up through metamorphosis of 0.36%. Three resulting juveniles were raised through sexual maturity. Sexual dichromatism was first observed about 180 d posthatch. A statistical model: Y = (X× 0.32437) ? (X2× 0.00043) ? 2.004, where Y = total length (mm) and X = number of days in culture, explained 97.6% of the variation in growth (P < r2 =" 0.976).">

Aquarium Air Pumps

2009-08-16T17:37:00.000-07:00

They not only offer pleasing effects but also essential oxygenation and current to the aquarium. Not all aquarists use them though. It is possible to have an aquarium without one, but it poses challenges sooner or later.

What do they do?

An air pump can be used for filtration using foam, box or under-gravel filters, airation of the water by bubblestones, wands, or bubble tubes, and they can also power ornaments and create movement in the aquarium.

Filtration:

This is very often the first use of air pumps. Most aquarists buy air pumps for this reason initially. Filtration is an essential part of any aquarium and not all can be filtered by other methods. The principle advantage of air filtration is that it is gentle and safe for delicate and small fish. Many electrically powered filters are too powerful for small fish and fry to cope with, creating strong currents in the tank and tiring them out. They also create strong intake currents and can pull small fish into the intakes.

Air filtration is much less dangerous for these fish. Because it uses air to move the water, the current is much less, there are no moving parts to hurt fish and the fittings are interchangeable and cheap. By using air filtration you don’t need to add any other form of airation to your aquarium, as the air bubbles rising from the stone will increase the surface area of the water and naturally airate. They also help to extract the other contaminants that are suspended in the water such as CO2, chlorine and nitrogen that is absorbed in the water.

Airation:

This is very important for some fish since as the water is warm is is less able to hold oxygen. Loaches in particular require well airated water to survive, since they come from streams where the water is very well oxygenated.

Ornamentals:

It’s always a conversation piece when youhave a waterwheel turning or a diver rising and falling in the aquarium. These can only be operated by air! A bubble curtain is fun for the fish and pleasing to the eye.

You cannot have too much oxygenation in a fish tank, so there is no concerns about havinbg too much, unlike power filters where the currents they create can be problematic.

Types of pump:

There are several different types of air pump, depending on the depth of water, the amount of attachments, and so on. Air pumps are not expensive and readily available at many outlets. They range from a small single outlet pump which is just enough for one ornament in a small tank, or a small sponge filter in your betta bowl, to large and powerful multi-outlet pumps capable of maintaining several tanks at once with air curtains, UGF’s and ornaments. The size of the pump you need depends on the use you intend it for. As a guide, you will need a twin outlet pump to run the filtration and aesthetics in a 15 Gallon tank. These pumps cost from $5.00 - $25.00 each.

There are several makes available, some run quieter than others, so you may need to research as to the right one for you. Air pumps can be quite noisy and as they run 24 hours a day, it is important to find a quiet one if you are planning to have the pump near the tank. You can install them in cupboards, drawers, or even other rooms, so the larger ones are not always the wrong choice, even if they do tend to make a noise.

Types of Aquarium Filters

2009-08-16T17:25:00.001-07:00

Undergravel Filter (UGF)

The UGF has been used for decades by hobbyists with great success. Unfortunately, this filter gets a lot of bad press by hobbyists who simply do not understand the basic concept and necessary maintenance behind UGF´s. The UGF consists of a hard plate which sits on the bottom of the aquarium. The plate is raised slightly off the bottom of the tank to support a layer of gravel. There are small slots in the plate and riser tubes on the ends. An airstone or water pump (called a "powerhead") is used to move water up the riser tubes. The result is water flowing through the gravel bed, under the filter plate, and up the riser tubes (called "uplift tubes"). The water brings oxygen to the gravel bed, promoting the growth of beneficial bacteria. These bacteria metabolize the ammonia and nitrite in the aquarium. The result is a very effective biological filter. Unfortunately, waste is also pulled into the gravel bed. Because of this the gravel bed can easily become clogged, which results in poor water quality. It is necessary to do frequent water changes and gravel cleaning. This is easily accomplished with a siphon hose / gravel vac, which allows you to pull the waste out of the gravel bed while doing water changes. Provided you keep the gravel bed clean and free of debris, the UGF is a very reliable and cheap filter. I have many UGF´s myself and have never had a problem with them. It should be pointed out that if you are keeping large fish which dig and move the gravel bed around, the UGF will become inefficient. Water will simply flow through the exposed filter plate, rather than through the gravel bed which supports the bacteria. For large fish an external method of biological filtration is desired.

Corner Filters / Box Filters
These filters are usually sold with cheap, small setups and usually fail to support an aquarium. The design is a small box filled with carbon and filter floss. Water is pulled through the box and back into the water. These units sit inside the aquarium and are powered by an air pump. They are designed for mechanical and chemical filtration, and support a small amount of bacteria, until the floss and carbon are changed. I have had good results by removing the floss and carbon, replacing it with gravel or other biomedia. This will allow for a limited amount of bacteria growth, capable of supporting a small fish load. These filters work well for raising fry. You are best to simply purchase a sponge filter which is about the same price, yet much more effective.

Sponge Filters
These are also an internal form of biological filtration. Water is pulled through a sponge and then pumped back into the water column. As the water flows through the sponge bacteria grows, as with the UGF. Sponges are very inexpensive and capable of supporting a very large bioload, provided your fish are not extremely large. Sponges tend to become covered with waste and normally need to be cleaned on a monthly basis. Cleaning the sponge only takes about 30 seconds. When doing your regular partial water change, you can remove the sponge and rinse it out in the bucket of dirty aquarium water. This will allow you to remove any debris from the sponge without harming the bacteria bed. Sponge filters are excellent for aquariums where a gentle water flow is required. They are also excellent as a secondary biological filter, which can easily be placed in a hospital tank for immediate biological filtration, should the need arise. I currently run 35 aquariums using the Sponge filter as the only form of filtration. I find them to be very easy to maintain.

Trickle (Wet-Dry) Filters
A trickle filter sits underneath the aquarium stand. Water is gravity fed to the trickle filter where a bacteria bed is supported. This bacteria can consist of bioballs, a biowheel, or other biological media. The key is that all of the media should be held out of the water. Water is allowed to "trickle" over the biomedia while being exposed to air. The result is an extremely large amount of bacteria growth, capable of supporting extremely large fish loads. Most trickle filters will have a prefilter which serves for mechanical filtration. If you decide to design your own model, it is very important that all of the biomedia be out of the water. Submersed biomedia defeats the purpose of a trickle filter and you may as well use a sponge filter.

Power Filters
These filters hang on the back of your aquarium. Water is pulled into the filter and pushed through a filter pad containing carbon. The result is mechanical and chemical filtration. These are usually not a very good source of biological filtration. However, many designs have incorporated a biological filtration pad within the unit, and thus become a complete filtration system. These include the Whisper, AquaClear, and Millennium units. I have personally had mixed results using these units for biological filtration purposes. The only power filter unit I have used which has an excellent biological filter are the Penguin models, which are discussed below. The power filters are primarily meant to accent current biological filtration, such as a sponge filter or undergravel filter.

BioWheel Filters
These products are primarily produced by Penguin and combine a biological filter with the advantages of mechanical and chemical filtration. They consist of a unit which hangs on the back of the aquarium. Water is pulled into the unit by an impeller and then discharged back into the aquarium. The biowheel itself is the last step in the filtration process. It grows enormous amounts of bacteria and is capable of supporting a large fish load. This is my preference for aquariums which house large cichlids. This filter line also includes a mechanical filter pad. This pad is the first step in the filtration process. As water flows through the pad large particles are removed, keeping the biowheel free of debris. The filter pad needs to be rinsed off or changed on a regular basis. Also, inside the filter pad, is a layer of activated carbon. The carbon removes odors and other impurities from water. This will keep your tank from smelling fishy, as well as keep the water crystal clear. I am very partial to the Penguin line of filters, especially the Emperor models. These provide the best of both worlds all in one unit: biological and mechanical / chemical filtration.

Canister Filters
These filters are rather expensive but usually of very good quality and efficiency. Water is taken from the aquarium through a hose and into a tight-locked container which can rest anywhere outside the tank. In the container it passes through several compartments which allow you to configure the filtration media any way you want. A water pump then pushes the water back into the tank through another hose. This type of filter is very versatile and allows you to enhance biological, mechanical, or chemical filtration according to your tanks necessities, or keep a good balance of all three in a single unit.

Fluidized Bed Filters
These filters are growing in popularity and deservingly so. They consist of a cylindrical pipe filled with sand. Water is pumped through the filter and the sand, resulting in massive bacteria growth. They are an amazing source of biological filtration contained in a very small unit. Aquariums up to several thousand liters can be filtered with these units. They do require a prefilter to remove particulate matter. The prefilter should be cleaned weekly to allow for the filter to maintain its water flow rate. These units are best used in conjunction with a power or mechanical filter of a high flow rate.

The Planted Discus Tank

2009-08-16T17:13:00.000-07:00

Initial Setup

A discus tank is not the appropriate place to play with soil or other experimental substrate additives. I use a reliable commercial laterite like Dupla, which I know I can trust. As in most of my tanks, I use laterite mixed into the bottom third of a fine gravel substrate (1 to 3 millimeters). I want the gravel bed to be at least 3 inches deep, but in a large or especially deep tank like a 150 gallon, I would go with an even deeper substrate to support the larger root systems of the large plants needed in a tank of that size.

Rockwork and wood (like driftwood) must be chosen with care for a discus tank. Use only well-aged driftwood and make sure any rockwork used does not have sharp edges where the discus could get hurt should they become frightened and run into it. I’ve seen a discus scrape itself badly on lava rock it was attempting to hide behind. While the scrapes healed without incident, it would have been easier to prevent the injury to start with.

Now comes the question of lighting. We’ve all heard that discus prefer dimly lit tanks. Well, the last time I checked, the sun in the Amazon basin was just about as bright as many other places in the world. Where do discus go to avoid the sun or hide if they feel threatened? Into the shade, under vegetation! Granted, in the typical discus biotope, this shade would not be in the form of aquatic plants, it would be forest canopy and tree roots. But the premise is the same. It’s not that the light level needs to be lower, it’s that the discus need to have a way to escape it if they so desire. Discus do absolutely fine in tanks with an excess of 3 watts per gallon of light as long as there is plenty of cover. Interestingly, they won’t even avoid the brighter areas of the tank as long as they feel they can hide if they want to.

Exactly how much light you will need or want will depend to a great extent on your water source. If your water is quite soft, you may be able to grow enough species of plants in moderate lighting and without supplemental CO₂ that you choose to run the tank with around 2 watts per gallon. If your water is harder, with a higher carbonate hardness (dKH), you will find that your plants grow better (and therefore handle the nutrient load better) with a light level closer to 3 watts per gallon and with the addition of supplemental CO₂.

Do not add supplemental CO₂ to a discus tank that is poorly buffered (dKH below 3). While high CO₂ levels and large pH swings are not tolerated well by many fish, discus are particularly intolerant of this treatment. Many people are under the impression that you can only keep discus in very soft, acid water. While this may improve your chances of breeding discus, it is not necessary to maintain them. Discus can live to a healthy, happy, ripe old age in water with moderate amounts of both dKH and general hardness. In fact, they will do much better in steady, reliable conditions like these than they will in the tank of an aquarist who is constantly fiddling with hardness and pH, but cannot maintain stability.

If you do decide to use supplemental CO₂, it is best to use a pressurized tank system with a reliable regulator and needle valve. Again, the goal should be stability. Reasonable amounts of supplemental CO₂ will not harm your discus. Rapid or large fluctuations in conditions will.

Filtration in the planted discus tank need be no different than any other planted tank, except that the tank itself is probably quite a bit larger. Also, because of the value and size of the fish in question, it is probably better to err in the direction of too much, rather than too little, filtration. Large canisters or a wet/dry filter are probably the best choices.

I am often asked what plants can be successfully grown at discus temperatures. If you are keeping your tank in the low to mid 80s (degrees Fahrenheit), there are very few commercially available aquarium plants that won’t do fine. The important thing to remember is that when you increase the temperature, you increase the plants’ need for light, CO₂ and other nutrients. As long as the tank is adequately illuminated and the plants are well nourished they will do fine. There are no plant species I have worked with successfully in my other planted tanks that have failed at discus temperatures. For that matter, I have had periods during heat waves where the temperature in many of my tanks have remained in the mid 90s for up to six weeks. Some species have had slower growth during these periods, but all have survived.

As with any other new planted tank installation, plant heavily from the beginning. Make sure the initial planting is heavy on fast-growing species. If possible, concentrate on those that you know do well in your water conditions. If this is your first planted tank, some suggestions are: water sprite (Ceratopteris thalictroides), water wisteria (Hygrophila difformis), Hygrophila polysperma, Rotala rotundifolia, Vallisneria sp., frog bit (Limnobium sp.) and Salvinia. Some larger swordplants, such as Echinodorus bleheriand E. ’Rubin, should be introduced in the early stages, as well. This will give these plants a chance to settle in and stretch toward the surface and will give young discus plenty of potential hiding places when they are finally added to the tank.

Stocking the Tank

Do not add any fish during the first two weeks. At the two-week mark, you can begin stocking your algae-eating crew. This should include Otocinclus and Pekoltia sp. Catfish are acceptable, although they don’t eat much algae. Farlowella sp. catfish are another good alternative.

While Siamese algae eaters (Chrossocheilus siamensis) are extremely useful algae eaters in many planted tanks, they do not work well in a discus tank. They will not bother the discus in any way, but they show a strong preference for discus food over algae. You will soon have submarine-size siamensis, and, while they are still enjoyable fish in their own right, they won’t do a thing to keep algae under control in the tank!

Do not under any circumstances use Chinese algae eaters (Gyrinocheilus aymonieri). These fish are aggressive and territorial under the best of circumstances and have a much stronger liking for discus slime than they do for algae. Larger “pleco” species have been accused of the same behavior, although experiences seem to vary from hobbyist to hobbyist. Do not feed your algae-eating fish or fertilize your tank for another two weeks.

At the one-month mark, you can begin filling in with your schooling fish. My personal preference is for a large school of a single species of tetra. A hundred cardinal tetras (Paracheirodon innesi) make an awe-inspiring sight swimming up and down the length of a 6-foot tank! Avoid boisterous or nippy species like serpae tetras (Hyphessobrycon callistus) or black skirts (Gymnocorymbus ternetzi). For variety, any of the pencilfish (Nannostomus sp.) make attractive, inoffensive additions to a discus community, as do hatchetfish and splash tetras of the genus Copella.

At this point, it is also appropriate to begin your regular maintenance schedule. This will include weekly water changes of at least 25 percent and the regular addition of a good trace element fertilizer. It is an unusual discus tank that ever needs supplementation of nitrogen or phosphate.

The area where people are most likely to get into trouble with planted discus tanks is putting themselves in a position where they need to medicate their fish. Many medications are very damaging to aquatic plants and sometimes it can take weeks for the damage to become apparent. The best way to avoid this problem is to make sure that all fish introduced into the aquarium are healthy. I can’t state strongly enough the importance of adequate quarantine procedures in ensuring the success of a planted discus tank. Quarantine all new purchases for a period of at least two weeks, preferably a month, before adding them to the display tank.

While I am building up the stocking levels in the main tank, I get my young discus off to a good start in a smaller quarantine tank that is separate from the tank I use to quarantine the other fish destined for the display. I would steer clear of newly imported or wild-caught discus for this type of tank. I wouldn’t even buy pet store fish. Buy a group of young discus directly from a reputable breeder whom you trust to supply you with clean, healthy stock. Even then, keep them in your quarantine tank for at least a month. Make sure they are healthy, eating vigorously and behaving normally. If you do encounter health problems, solve them now, in the quarantine tank. The effort you expend on this step will reward you for many years to come.

Your discus should be the last fish introduced to the tank — at about the six to eight week mark. By this time, the plants will have settled in and be growing well. They will be able to absorb the nutrient load of the growing discus and their feeding habits. This will help keep the water chemistry in the tank more stable. Many of the plants will have reached the surface, providing shaded areas where the newly installed discus can escape the light if they so desire. The schooling fish will have settled in as well and feel comfortable in their surroundings. Their relaxed behavior will soon convince the discus that there is nothing to fear in the environment. The fact that they will be used to your feeding schedule and waiting for you, will cue the young discus in to meal times, meaning there will be less wasted food left to feed algae instead of fish.

Feeding your Fish

Discus, as I have mentioned, are heavy feeders and prefer meaty foods that are loaded with phosphate. It is important to feed them well to maintain their health, but it is also important to let as little food as possible escape into the environment. If frozen foods are used, choose those that don’t fall apart easily in the water. Prepared frozen discus foods should be placed on a paper towel to drain as they defrost. This will limit the amount of nutrient-laden liquid that enters the water. Foods like frozen bloodworms and brine shrimp should be thoroughly rinsed and drained before use.

Whatever foods you feed your fish, they should be fed in small quantities — if possible, a couple of times a day. It is best to get your fish into a routine of coming to the front glass at feeding time. Then you can feed them a few pieces at a time until everyone has had enough. If you feed so much that food is dropping onto the floor of the tank, you risk that the fish will not find it and it will decay, adding to the waste levels in the water.

A final word of caution. Stay away from Tubifex and/or black worms in the planted discus tank. Again, we want to avoid the introduction of pathogens into the aquarium as much as possible. While black worms are less likely to be contaminated than Tubifex, both have the potential of carrying disease organisms into the tank that will be hard to treat without damaging the plants.

Maintenance

As time goes on, you will find the routine that works best for your particular tank. If your tank is large and you haven’t overstocked it with discus (remember, in terms of mass, one adult discus may be equal to all your other fish combined!), and you are not feeding too heavily, you can probably get by with changing 25 to 30 percent of your water weekly. Remember, in the interest of keeping the tank as stable as possible, it is important to change water frequently rather than do larger water changes less frequently.

Watch your plants carefully and let them tell you whether you need to increase trace element supplementation. If growth slows or leaves are looking as though they are losing their chlorophyll (chlorotic), it is a good sign that more trace elements may be required.

It is also a good idea to track nitrate and phosphate levels in your tank, at least for the first six months or so. Use low-range nitrate and phosphate test kits. If you find that levels are staying low, your maintenance routine and plant growth are keeping up with the nutrient input into the tank. If you find that nitrate and phosphate levels are slowly rising, you will need to increase water changes to keep ahead of the input.

At 2 watts per gallon, your tank can probably withstand nitrate levels as high as 10 milligrams per liter (mg/L) and phosphate as high as 1 mg/L without too much algae growth. If you are running the tank at 3 watts per gallon, it is best to cut both of these numbers in half.

If you find that in spite of a good regular maintenance program you are still getting unacceptable amounts of algae, the first choice, of course, is to examine your stocking and feeding levels. If you are not willing or able to cut down in these areas, you must find other ways of reducing nitrate and, more especially, phosphate in the water column.

Assuming your tap water is nitrate and phosphate free, the best solution is to step up the amount and frequency of water changes. It is also helpful to use sponge prefilters on all filter intakes to act as mechanical filters. These must be cleaned no less than every 48 hours to remove debris before it is broken down and the nutrients released. Finally, if all else fails, phosphate- and nitrate-removing resins can be used in the media chamber of your filter. These resins work quite well to sop up the last bits of nitrate and phosphate, but will not handle high levels of either substance in an efficient manner. They are also rather expensive if used on a routine basis.

A large, beautifully planted tank inhabited by saucer-size healthy discus is an awe-inspiring sight. A tank like this is not difficult to achieve or maintain. With a little forethought and ongoing attention to routine maintenance you can have a stunning slice of nature to enjoy in your living room.

Why care about fish taxonomy?

2009-08-16T16:48:00.000-07:00

Why care about fish taxonomy? Well, by understanding the basic fish taxonomy you will get a lot of information for free. Let’s say that you see an interesting fish in the fish store and notice that it belongs to the same genus as a fish that you have successfully kept earlier. You try in vain to find any information regarding this new species and its requirements when it comes to water temperatures, water chemistry, feeding etcetera. It turns out that this fish it not commonly kept and there is hardly any information to be found. The store keeper is also quite oblivious and can’t really offer you any advice. The fish looks a little stressed out, but you do not know if it is because the store keeper is keeping it in unsuitable water conditions or if it just a little upset from the transportation. You do however have one big clue. Since you know which genera this fish belong to, chances are high that it will appreciate the same water conditions as the fish that you have already successfully kept in your aquarium. You can never be 100% sure, but it is at least much better than trying different water conditions at random.

The etymologic background of the term taxonomy is two Greek words. The verb tassein means ‘to classify’ and the substantive nomos means law or science. Taxonomy can therefore be translated “scientific classification”. Today, the term taxonomy is used more broadly and taxonomic schemes are used to organize a vide range of different information. In the beginning, the word taxonomy did however only refer to the scientific classification of living organisms. The Swedish scientist Carl von Linné was one of the pioneers in this field. His classifications have late been revised as we have learned more and more about the development of different species and how they are related to each other. The new DNA technology has also provided the scientists with a very powerful tool that helps them to determine the relationship between species.

Living organisms are divided into Domains, Kingdoms, Phylums or Divisions, Classes, Orders, Families, Genera and Species.Sometimes Subphylums/Subdivisions, Subclasses, Suborders and Subfamilies are used in addition to the main categories. The scientific name of a species will tell you the name and genus of that species. Take for instance the well-known Platy. The fish that is commonly sold as Platy is the Southern Platy - Xiphophorus maculatus. The Latin name tells you that your Platy belong to the genus Xiphophorus. If we look at this genus, we will find another familiar fish, the Xiphophorus hellerii, more commonly known as Green Swordfish. The name Xiphophorus actually means sword bearer in Greek, it is derived from the Greek word for sword and the Greek word for bearer. Since you know that these two species belong to the same genus, you can suspect that they are closely related. Knowing such things are important, because if you place your Platy in an aquarium where you already keep Green Swordfish

they may actually interbreed, even though they are not the same species.

The Energy Efficient Aquarium

2009-08-16T16:40:00.000-07:00

Most aquarists are realizing the cost of electricity used in the hobby, but are less sure how much is used and how to save energy.

Electricity is practically the only energy source used in the hobby now. Other types of heating such as gas or kerosene burner, heating the floor of the tanks have been forgotten.

Solar heating is the ideal proposition to save energy in the fishroom or the room used for the aquariums in the house. Design and use of solar energy has to be thought of at the beginning of a serious approach to the hobby. Solar heating works strictly on the laws of the sun's movement during the year. Once it has been decided to follow this path there are an infinite number of ways to develop more efficient systems as to energy storage, application of roof panels or even solar cells for direct production of electric current.

The basic decision of where to place our tanks in the imperative one. The normal location for the aquariums is in the living area, either free standing or in-built in a cabinet. If the room is heated the aquarium needs less energy than in a non-heated room.

Another solution is to have more tanks in a hobby room, but the larger number of fish tanks requires careful consideration s to the heating system. Individual heating of tanks brings high water evaporation and moisture condensation on windows and some other parts of the room. The wholly heated room with no individual tank heaters is the other option.

The decision to modify the garage or the ultimate design of a specialised fish or plant room, fulfilling the requirements of the hobby in full, is for the real enthusiast with a long term interest.

Now to assess our energy needs to participate in the hobby cheaply. The first thing is to refresh a few basic laws of physics from our high school years.

The heat transfer law says that energy moves from high energy potential to low energy potential. Popularly expressed, "warm places cool down". Heat energy is transferred by conduction of the heat through the mass (water, steel etc.) or by convection where the moving air, water etc helps to 'hop' the heat from one wall to the other. The third method of heat transfer is radiation. The glowing heater is an example of radiation. The effects of radiation from low temperature objects is negligible.

This is as far as we can go into explanations of heat transfer without getting into the theories of movement of electrons and molecules.

The laws of movement of air and water (the media we are interested in) are simple too. Air tends to rise when heated. The same applies to water. Remember water is heaviest at 4 C (ice floats). Because of this natural law, we experience layering (stratification) of the water in our aquariums according to temperature. The warmest layer is at surface level.

Another part of physics creeps into the hobby. Water vapour (humidity) is produced by evaporation of water from the aquarium surface. We do not need to know about relative or absolute humidity of the air, but we should remember the warmer the air, the more moisture it can carry.

We can observe moisture from the air condensing on colder surfaces. Here is the human safety risk. Electricity is a dangerous toy. Household electrical wiring carries 240 Volts at a high enough Amperage to kill. The forgotten 12 Volt systems (low voltage, like your car) were too costly, and the cost was multiplied by the necessary use of transformers. Manufacturing companies abandoned production of these safe heaters.

Any electrical installation must be kept out of heavy condensation areas. Switches have to be mounted outside of these areas to prevent the danger of electrical shock.

Now we should start to think about different means of saving energy. Savings can be made on any aquarium particularly on free standing tanks. These lose heat from all surfaces. it located in very cold rooms, heating a larger tank can cost up to $30 a month during the peak of winter.

In cold rooms the aquarium water stratifies with cold water at the bottom and warmer water at the top. This hides the problems for the bottom dwellers like catfish. The aquarist feels the warmer water at the surface, or takes the temperature with a floating thermometer, and assumes the whole tank is OK.

A simple example shows the basics of the process.

The aquarium has a temperature of say 24 C. When room temperature is the same, the water is nicely and uniformly warm from top to bottom. During the night or in winter, the room temperature drops to say 16 C or even lower. The air in contact with the side glass gets warmer and starts to rise. This brings cooler air to the glass. This convection (air movement) starts to cool the glass and draws the warmth from the tank. The heat energy dissipates in the room air. The water gets cooler and starts to stratify, cooler at the bottom, warmer at the surface. Heat is also lost from the bottom and the lid but the heat exchange is more complicated particularly when you want to calculate losses accurately.

The reverse process starts when the room is heated (or in summer) to a higher temperature than the aquarium water.

Let's look at a daily cycle. During the day the temperature is 24 C and at night 16 C. Assume that these temperatures hold for 12 hours each. The aquarium water doesn't reach these extremes. We would expect average tank temperature would be 20 C. This is still OK for the normal healthy tropical fish. But in this case water stratification in the tank occurs naturally and the temperature at the bottom would be drifting down towards 16 ' C, while the surface is above 20 C. This is a clear indication that the temperature measurement must be taken close to the tank floor level.

The other requirement is to provide a forced mixing of the water. The simplest method is by aeration or a power filter moving the water and mixing the different temperature layers.

To prevent water temperature drop due to a cold environment around the tank we must supply heat energy. The simplest device is the aquarium heater.

What output heater is needed for which tank? It can be calculated. We need to know the volume of the tank, the lowest expected temperature, and can then calculate the energy required to heat the water in this case. Then convert the energy units into Watts.

A simpler approach, but not as accurate, is to learn from experience. Logic dictates that all gadgets will eventually fall. If you keep very expensive fish 2 less powerful heaters in each tank are a necessity for the water to not get too cold when one fails. For example, a 150 litre tank (4 foot standard) located in an unheated room (facing north) can manage with 2 heaters (15OW). One heater should be set to the lowest required water temperature, say 21 C. The other should operate at the required normal temperature of say 24 C. This gives your fish a chance of survival when one heater goes 'bust'. The other will keep things OK until you find it.

As a matter of principle it is better to employee less powerful heaters (yet still able to maintain the required temperature level) than the high output ones. Why? The low output heater runs for longer periods, thus is not constantly switching on and off. This frequent switching develops sparks causing the burnout or sticking of the bimetal contacts in the heater thermostat. Lower output heaters don't 'boil' the fishes so easily at least not in a short time.

Normal heaters should last at least 5 years or more without problems. But as you know Murphy’s Law is the only one that works perfectly and we get caught very often when we don't expect it.

It is a good practice is to put an aeration stone under or near the heater. This helps to move colder water towards the heater (the heater circulates water also by potential water temperature difference). Aeration close to the hotter is essential when keeping Black Mollies who tend to sit on the heater to warm up. When they move into cold water the muscles of the swim bladder tend to cramp up and the fish loses the ability to swim.

Until now the article has been devoted to energy input to the aquarium water. Water temperature is one of the most important considerations when keeping tropical fishes. But for the hobbyist the cost of energy used plays an essential role too.

We waste most of the energy on heating. The second highest wastage is on lighting the tank. Last comes energy 'spent' on aeration, filters, power pumps etc.

How do we handle the heating losses?

The first and most important way is to insulate the tank. If we do not utilise the available natural light from all sides and the top of the tank, all sides of the aquarium which are not required for observation should be insulated. One very good insulation is polystyrene sheets attached to aquarium sides. 'Pink Batts' are good but tend to collapse vertically when soaked with water.

Polystyrene used under the tank should be increased from the commonly used 12mm to 24 or preferably 36mm thickness.

Insulation significantly reduces heat loss. Similar insulation should be a permanent feature of aquariums built into cabinets. The polystyrene advantage is it's soak resistance and easily worked sheets. it also reduces the volume of moist air in air-filled voids between glass and cabinet walls thus reducing the condensation of moisture on the cold surface of the cabinet.

Heat loss reduction from lighting is very difficult. For a single aquarium or cabinet the utilization of the lighting heat is unwieldy as the heat is kept above the lid in the vicinity of the light source. There is better utilization of the light - heat energy in vertically arranged aquariums within an enclosure.

I prefer to use warmer air for the air pump even when the efficiency dividend is quite small.

Saving on lighting is always difficult. Here the use of incandescent bulbs is the worst solution (even though the light spectrum is probably the best for the plants) because 95% of the energy is converted into heat and only 5% forms the light.

Neon tubes are more economical but the light spectrum is a nightmare! Working out the balance between GrowLux and daylight tubes, or using the expensive ones such as the Triton tubes, Costs a lot too.

Another path of exploration is the use of the compact fluorescent bulbs (costing $20 - $30 each). 1 have found their light spectrum good for plants, the energy saving is great, and if you avoid overheating in closed hoods they last a long time. The cost is comparable with Triton tubes and the installation is simple.

The present design of light hoods is an absolute disgrace! The hoods need to reflect light without bouncing it all over the place.

Instead of having a parabolic shape (like a car headlight) the squarish shape of the hoods throw light in all directions. The problem results in a hot hood and light source via ray absorption and loss of light intensity emanated towards the water surface.

Utilizing the heat energy from the lights with a tiny fan and circulation around the tank would be a major boost to reducing the heating input into the aquarium in winter. In summer the energy for the lights would be wasted for the sake of not overheating the tank.

Least of all energy wasters are the various gadgets such as the air pump, water pumps (as filters, power heads etc.). Thanks to the developments of high technology energy consumption is minimal.

Air pumps or motorised filters represent energy consumption of 4-8 Watts each. This represents, at the current electricity rate, a cost of 1-2 cents a day. The sophistication and simplicity is so high that the task of saving any more energy is far beyond the scope of the normal hobbyist.

We can conclude that there is always room to improve efficiency of energy use in the aquarium hobby. The easiest way is to insulate the tanks and put them into an enclosure (cabinet etc.).

Modification of aquarium lighting and use of energy efficient sources is the second step.

Reducing the heat loss from the filters and associated pipes can be made by the location of these in areas within the aquarium enclosure.

There are other sources of thermal energy which could be used for the hobby. Solar energy with heat accumulation storage is one answer.

Room for improvement in energy consumption is quite large and brings not only a savings in dollars but the satisfaction of the personal achievement of saving a little of the world's environment.

General Guide for the ZEOvit System

2009-08-16T10:11:00.000-07:00

The intent of this “guide” is to assist you during the start-up phase and general use of the ZEOvit® system (by Korallen-zucht.de), as well as to give you a basic understanding of how the system works. The system consists of two columns, which are described as follows: Column 1 is the base system consisting of components to minimize nutrient levels. Column 2 deals with coral coloration and food in a nutrient poor system while maintaining “near natural” conditions. The base system involves the effective reduction of nutrients and maintenance of water conditions close to the parameters corals encounter in their natural habitat. This column consists for the following components: 1. Balanced mix of zeolites (ZEOvit®) 2. Microorganism solution (ZEObac) 3. Combination product of bacteria and coral food (ZEOfood7) 4. Bacteria food (ZEOstart) 5. Constant filtration with activated carbon The following requirements are also necessary for the ZEOvit® method to be successful: 6. Efficient strong skimming 7. Sufficient lighting 8. Optimization of nutrient addition 9. Addition of elements at low levels 10. Optimum water parameters (Ca, Mg, K+, KH, salinity) 11. Regular weekly water changes 12. Sufficient water flow 13. Use of live rock etc. The goal to be achieved: The purpose of the system is to create a low nutrient, near natural levels, environment. The goal is to reduce measurable levels of nitrate (NO3) and phosphate (PO4) without lowering the levels of important minerals, like calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), Potoassium (K+) and carbonate hardness (KH), such that addition of these trace elements is minimal. 1. Balanced mix of zeolites (ZEOvit®) Zeolites are a group of natural occurring minerals that exist worldwide. Their chemical composition can vary greatly and therefore exhibit different properties of adsorption, ion exchange or molecular retention. Today’s modern industrial applications require very specific properties and therefore most of the zeolites used are either modified natural zeolites or completely synthetically manufactured. Our mix consists of three different zeolites. These zeolites were chosen because of their ability to reduce certain toxins in a balanced manner. The functional life of the mix is limited and has to be exchanged every 6-12 weeks depending on the tanks nutrient load. The replacement of old zeolite material with new can be conducted in a single session. The useful life is directly related to the tanks nutrient level. The higher the load of organic compounds (phosphate - PO4 and nitrate - NO3), a shorter interval for material exchange is required. It is important to have sufficient water flow through the filter material (200-400 liters per 1 liter of ZEOvit®). We strongly recommend not exceeding the maximum flow rate of 100 gph per 1 liter of ZEOvit®, which could undoubtedly have a negative impact. High water flow through the media in already stocked tanks, especially during the start up of this system, has shown to cause slow tissue loss in SPS corals. We recommend a lower flow rate through the media during the first few weeks of introduction of this method to a tank already stocked with corals. The effectiveness of this system in reducing nutrients could result in changes that are to abrupt when higher flow rates are used. However, corals need time to “adapt” to these new nutrient conditions. We also recommend against use of phosphate absorbers, no matter if iron or aluminum based, when using this system. The system by itself is able to lower and maintain low levels of PO4 very effectively. The amount of ZEOvit® used is 1 liter per 100 gallons of water. It is important not to exceed this recommended amount, because excessive amounts of ZEOvit® could have a negative effect on SPS corals and lead to tissue necrosis and therefore coral death. Signs of overdose are tissue loss starting from the coral tips or the complete loss of all tissue within a short period of time (i.e., rapid tissue necrosis, RTN). This problem occurs usually because of the rapid change in nutrient conditions in the tank. As mentioned above, corals need time to adapt to changes and an overdose does not allow for gradual changes. In order to calculate the required amount of material, take the gross water volume of the total system and subtract approximately 20% for an average decorated tank to come up with the net water volume. Use this net water volume to determine the required amount of ZEOvit®. We recommend using only 60% of the required material for the first interval if your corals display high levels of zooxanthellae (i.e., dark brown with dull tissue appearance because of unnaturally high nutrient load). Rinse the ZEOvit® material very well with fresh water before use so that fine particles created by abrasion during transportation are removed. An initial cloudiness in the water during introduction of new material is not harmful to living organisms and usually disappears within an hour. It is important to clean the material daily to maintain optimum performance. The filter specifically designed for the system makes it possible to accomplish this task within a minute. The filter system consists of a cylindrical tube in which water from the tank flows from the bottom to the top. The ZEOvit® material is placed on top of a perforated plate, which is connected to a PVC rod. To clean the material, push and pull the rod (about 2-4 inches) approximately 10 – 15 times. Keep the filter pump running during this cleaning process. If possible, we recommend doing this cleaning once or twice daily. It is not detrimental, if you are unable to perform this task for several days. Return to the regular cleaning schedule as soon as possible. Suitable filters can be obtained from us or from one of our dealers. The mulm, released from the ZEOvit® material, contains bacteria that are used as food by the corals. We therefore recommend placing the ZEOvit® filter after the skimmer in the last compartment of the sump. This is very important because it provides nutrients to the animals. This procedure has a very positive impact on colors, polyp extension, and vitality of the corals. Large Polyped Corals (LPS) react with fully expanded tissue. The material does not directly remove nitrite (NO2), nitrate (NO3), or phosphate (PO4) from the tank water. It permanently absorbs ammonium (NH4 +) and ammonia (NH3), the first two chemicals in the nitrification cycle, thus preventing the formation of nitrite (NO2) and nitrate (NO3). Certain other elements are adsorbed as well and require addition to counteract depletion, which would have a negative effect on the environment. We strongly recommend replenishing those elements and we offer supplements to be used with this system. At this point we would like to warn you not to use just any zeolite. There are several hundred different materials with this name. Every zeolite has been designed or modified for a specific use. Using a zeolite with the wrong properties could have detrimental effects on your tank and lead to the loss of all animals. Such total crashes have been reported to us in the past when the wrong zeolites were used. A visual selection or comparison is not possible since different zeolite material often looks alike. For the safety of your animals, only use zeolites that are packaged in ZEOvit® bags. You can see a picture of it on our homepage (www.korallen-zucht.de or www.captiveoceans.com). We recommend not using the material if the bag looks different. You should connect the ZEOvit® filter pump to an automatic timer if you have a high nutrient load or during the starting phase of the system. The pump should be switched on and off at an interval of 3 hours (3 hours on, 3 hours off, 3 hours on, 3 hours off, etc.) leading to an alternating environment of aerobic and anaerobic conditions. Every switch leads to an increased aspiration of PO4 by the microorganisms/bacteria residing in the material. This is not absolutely necessary in stable and very nutrient poor tanks. Please make sure that the media won’t be exposed to air while the pump is off. This could damage the micro-organisms/bacteria that has populated the area. An example would be a filter that sits above the tank. In such a case it would be possible to place the ZEOvit® filter within the aquarium. Dosing: A) Amount to be used in newly established tanks with fresh water and live rock (non-stocked): Use 1 liter ZEOvit® per 100 gallons net water volume with two exchange intervals of 4 weeks each. Subsequent dosing should follow that designed for tanks that are nutrient poor and running stable with ZEOvit® system. Water flow through the media should be between 50 and 100 gallons per hour. B) Amount to be used in tanks with high nutrient load and in tanks using ZEOvit® for the first time (already stocked): Use 1 liter ZEOvit® per 150 gallons net water volume with exchange interval of 6 – 8 weeks. Subsequent dosing should follow that designed for tanks that are nutrient poor and running stable with ZEOvit® system. Water flow through the media should be 50 – 60 gallons/hour per 1 liter of ZEOvit® during the first few weeks. C) Amount to be used in tanks, which are nutrient poor and running stable with ZEOvit® system (already stocked): Use 1 liter ZEOvit® per 100 gallons net water volume with exchange interval of 6 – 12 weeks. Water flow through the media should be 50 - 100 gallons/hour per 1 liter of ZEOvit®. Used in a ZEOvit® filter and cleaned daily as described above to remove any build up and to release mulm. This liquid solution contains several bacterial strains. The added microorganisms can be used as a food source by the corals. ZEObac consists of different bacterial strains that form a chain for nutrient reduction. An interruption of this chain leads to a disturbance and the accumulation of unwanted substances. For this reason, renewed dosing of the bacterial solution is recommended. Interruption in dosing for a long period of time will inevitably lead to a so-called monoculture. The added microorganisms work in principle as a chain reaction, which reduces substances step by step until the skimmer is able to permanently remove it from the tank. The result can be seen in the increased concentrated adsorbent in the protein skimmer the days following. It should be dosed for a period of 10-14 days after every exchange of ZEOvit® (and for the initial use of ZEOvit®). In order to maintain the microorganisms, we recommend an additional dose outside of this period once or twice weekly at the same dosing rate. Over dosage in a nutrient poor environment leads to a darkening of the coral tissue. This product has a limited shelf life because it contains cultures of living microorganisms. Unopened, it will last for at least 6 months if kept refrigerated. After the bottle is opened, the shelf life is approximately 3 months. Spoiled strains can be identified by a foul odor. If this is the case, some of the microorganisms are dead and the solution cannot be used. We recommend purchasing a bottle size that can be used in a 3-month period. It is better to purchase smaller amounts on a more frequent basis. Please make sure to avoid any contamination of the solution in the bottle (e.g. with aquarium water). Dosing: A) Amount to be used in newly established tanks with fresh water and live rock (non-stocked): During the start of the ZEOvit® system: 2 - 4 drops per 25 gallons net water volume daily over a period of 2 weeks. Subsequently, dose 1 - 2 drops per 25 gallons net water volume once or twice weekly until the change of ZEOvit®. After the first exchange of ZEOvit®: Every other day 1 drop per 25 gallons net water volume over a period of two weeks. Subsequently, dose 1 drop per 25 gallons net water volume two to three times weekly. B) Amount to be used in tanks with high nutrient load and in tanks using ZEOvit® for the first time (already stocked): During the start of the ZEOvit® system: Dose 1 drop per 25 gallons net water volume daily over a period of 2 weeks. Subsequently, dose 1 drop per 25 gallons net water volume two to three times weekly until the change of ZEOvit®. After the first exchange of ZEOvit®: Every other day 1 drop per 25 gallons net water volume over a period of two weeks. Subsequently, dose 1 drop per 25 gallons net water volume two to three times weekly. C) Amount to be used in tanks, which are nutrient poor and running stable with ZEOvit® system (already stocked): Dose 1 drop per 25 gallons net water volume every three days over a period of 2 weeks every time ZEOvit® is exchanged. Otherwise, dose 1 drop per 25 gallons net water volume once or twice weekly. Please keep in mind that the 3 different phases may vary in duration considerably. We recommend adjusting the dosing to the phases accordingly. 3. Combination product of bacteria and coral food (ZEOfood7) This substance is also delivered in liquid form, dosed at the same time and in combination with the microorganism solution (ZEObac). The purpose of this product is twofold: Multiplication and food for the dosed microorganisms and Food source for corals ZEOfood7 contains amino acids as well as several vitamins, which enable the coral to take up necessary nutrients leading to natural coloration. We have chosen to describe our products with version numbers because of the continued improvement of the system. The products are appropriately named including the number of the version (e.g. ZEOfood7). Starting with version 7 of this product (ZEOfood7 7), a darkening of the tissue will not occur, even if over dosed heavily. Another indicator is the formation of a heavy bacterial film on the decoration and the tank glass/walls. Even though this film is welcome, it should be kept low for purely esthetic reasons. Similar as with ZEOstart, it is possible that a visible brown or light green bacterial film builds that looks like a diatom bloom. When this occurs, we recommend that dosing of ZEOfood7 and ZEOstart be ceased for a few days until the film is gone. This film usually builds when there is an over dosage. We recommend adjusting your dosing amount accordingly. Dosing: A) Amount to be used in newly established tanks with fresh water and live rock (non-stocked): During the start of the ZEOvit® system: 2 – 4 drops per 25 gallons net water volume daily over a period of 2 weeks. Subsequently, dose 1 –2 drops per 25 gallons net water volume once or twice weekly until the change of ZEOvit®. After the first exchange of ZEOvit®: Every other day 1 drop per 25 gallons net water volume over a period of 2 weeks. Subsequently, dose 1 drop per 25 gallons net water volume two to three times weekly. B) Amount to be used in tanks with high nutrient load and in tanks using ZEOvit® for the first time (already stocked): During the start of the ZEOvit® system: Dose 1 drop per 25 gallons net water volume daily over a period of 2 weeks. Subsequently, dose 1 drop per 25 gallons net water volume two to three times weekly until the exchange of ZEOvit®. After the first exchange of ZEOvit®: Every other day 1 drop per 25 gallons net water volume over a period of two weeks. Subsequently, dose 1 drop per 25 gallons net water volume two to three times weekly. C) Amount to be used in tanks, which are nutrient poor and running stable with ZEOvit® system (already stocked): Dose 1 drop per 25 gallons net water volume every third day over a period of 2 weeks every time ZEOvit® is exchanged. Otherwise, dose 1 drop per 25 gallons net water volume once or twice weekly. Please keep in mind that the 3 different phases may vary in duration considerably. We recommend adjusting the dosing to the phases accordingly. 4. Bacteria food (ZEOstart2) This product is a liquid food source and promotes the reproduction of all nitrifying bacteria in the aquarium. It is therefore very effective in reducing phosphate (PO4) and nitrate (NO3.) We recommend continuous daily use of this product as a food source for nitrifying bacteria. For above-mentioned reasons, be careful and alert. With sustained overdosing, it is possible that a visible brown or light green bacterial film builds that looks like a diatom bloom. This film usually builds when there is an over dosage. When this occurs, we recommend that dosing of ZEOfood7 and ZEOstart be ceased for a few days, until the film is gone. We recommend adjusting your dosing amount accordingly. Daily dosing has shown to be necessary in practical tests in order to avoid large „variations“ in bacteria population. Therefore, we strongly recommend dosing smaller amounts throughout the day (if possible, split between morning and evening dosing) rather than larger amounts infrequently. Our observations have shown positive effects on coral coloration when the nutrient level can be kept very close to detectable levels. Excessive dosing can have a negative impact on PO4 and NO3 reduction. If these parameters are not dropping lower after a few weeks of dosing it is recommended to reduce the dosing amounts. Dosing: A) Amount to be used in newly established tanks with fresh water and live rock (non-stocked): Dose 5 ml per 25 gallons net water volume daily for 2 – 3 days. Subsequently, dose 1 ml per 25 gallons net water volume over a period of 2 weeks. Subsequently, dose like in tanks that are nutrient poor and stable running with the ZEOvit® system. B) Amount to be used in tanks with high nutrient load and in tanks using ZEOvit® for the first time (already stocked): Dose 2 ml per 250 gallons net water volume daily. Subsequently, dose like in tanks that are nutrient poor and stable running with the ZEOvit® system. C) Amount to be used in tanks, which are nutrient poor and running stable with ZEOvit® system (already stocked): Dose continuously 1 – 2 ml per 250 gallons net water volume daily depending on nutrient conditions. Good results were achieved when dosing was done 2 - 4 times daily with the aid of a dosing pump. Please keep in mind that a high quality and reliable dosing pump should be used to assure proper dosing amount and error free operation. Check the dosing amount on a regular basis when using a dosing pump. We generally recommend using the lower dosing and water flow amounts until you get comfortable with the system. As mentioned before, corals require a certain period of time to acclimate to the parameters of their environment. The more time you give your tank for these changes the less problems will occur. Please don’t treat this system with the „more is better“ philosophy. In case you are absent and you are unable to dose or „stir“ the media on a daily basis, just pick up where you left off upon your return. 5. Constant filtration with activated carbon We recommend the continuous use of our high quality activated carbon for filtration. The effect of activated carbon can vary greatly, therefore we recommend against the use of any other brand. Use 0.5 to 1 liter of activated carbon passively in a mesh bag per 250 gallons of tank water. Completely replace the activated carbon every 30 days. This will keep your tank water crystal clear allowing for unrestricted and true light penetration. Our carbon adsorbs several proteins (similar to a skimmer) as well as toxins released by corals. In order to maintain the efficiency of the carbon, we recommend kneading the mesh bag every couple of days. This will keep channels from forming. We recommend using activated carbon in a filter with forced flow. Tests have shown that the appropriate amount of carbon can also be placed in the filter on top of the zeolites. We would like to point out that during tests of various brands of activated carbon, some had negative effects on coral coloration. The water will become more clear with this active carbon use, allowing increased light transmission to our reef, therefore, precautionary steps may need to be taken to avoid too much light-stress to our corals, such as raising our main lighting pendants, shortening the photoperiod, or both. If you employ high powered lighting, we recommend to slowly increasing the amount used in 2 steps. The increased water clarity can lead to coral tissue damage. In case of strong active application, we recommend to use 50% of the carbon used passively. We recommend not using a higher amount of activated carbon then mentioned above. Place the carbon in a mesh bag (or nylon sock) and soak it in RO water that is heated to approximately 90 degrees Celsius. Let it soak for about 24 hours while it cools before placing it into your system. The carbon can be rinsed from the carbon dust in the RO water as well. The blackening from the carbon will not have a negative impact on your system. Dosing (passive flow): A) Amount to be used in newly established tanks with fresh water and live rock (non-stocked): Continuous use of 0.5 to 1 liter of activated carbon per 250 gallons net water volume, exchanged every 30 days. B Amount to be used in tanks with high nutrient load and in tanks using ZEOvit® for the first time (already stocked): Continuous use of 0.5 to 1 liter of activated carbon per 250 gallons net water volume, exchanged every 30 days. C) Amount to be used in tanks, which are nutrient poor and running stable with ZEOvit® system (already stocked): Continuous use of 0.5 to 1 liter of activated carbon per 250 gallons net water volume, exchanged every 30 days. In summery, with the use of the four mentioned elements, it is possible to reach near natural levels of compounds measurable by aquarists. Keep in mind; every tank is different with its own environment. There are variations, not only with the nutrientproducing animals, but also with the kind and amount of microorganisms. The amount of nutrient consumers (e.g., corals) makes it virtually impossible to give an exact dosing recommendation. In order to reach the full potential of the system, we recommend using the above mentioned dosing amounts and dosing intervals to slowly find the optimum values for your system without overdosing. However, near natural water conditions are not enough to achieve the desired growth rates, as well as promotion of intense colors. Some secondary conditions are also required which will be described below. Positive effects could be observed when amino acids were used during the transition to a low nutrient environment. We recommend the use of our product “Amino Acid High Concentrate” for SPS corals and “Amino Acid LPS” for large polyped stony and soft corals. The use of our coral food, Pohl’s Coral Vitalizer, has shown to be beneficial to the corals in this environment. We would like to emphasize that the use of Ozone or UV sterilizers are not possible with this system. The added microorganisms and elements will be destroyed by its use. 6. Efficient strong skimming As mentioned earlier, the basis of this method relies on export of harmful substances through skimming. Continuous use and frequent cleaning should be conducted in order to keep the skimmer performing at its maximum level. The results are better when the skimmer is adjusted in order not to produce too much concentrated skimmate (wet skimming). We would like to point out that it is our thought that needle wheels may precipitate certain elements and destroy plankton. These elements, e.g. such as potassium, will need to be re-added to the system. Do not use a skimmer that is too oversized or employ wet skimming if you use a needle wheel skimmer. We recommend the use of venturi type skimmers. 7. Sufficient Lighting We recommend the use of metal halides with a color temperature of 10,000 – 14,000 Kelvin (e.g. BLV), since this bulb produced the best results in practical experiments. In these tests, these bulbs brought the most intense and best colors in corals grow-out and holding tanks. Because the color of this bulb appears to yellow to the human eye and many prefer the bluer spectrum, it is possible to supplement it with the appropriate blue bulbs. We use exclusively T5 bulbs because of the highest efficiency available with the reflectors. The intensity, as well as the spectrum of the light, plays a major role in coral coloration. Or: Another real alternative is lighting strictly with T5. We achieve great results in our tanks as far as growth and coloration is concerned with Korallenzucht Coral Light and Fiji Purple bulbs. We use a combination of 2 ; 4 (Fiji Purple/Coral Light) at an intensity of approximately 550 Watts per m2. The bulbs are replaced every 6-8 weeks to assure best results. 8. Optimization of nutrient addition Keeping with the goal of the system to reach a low nutrient environment, it is necessary to limit introduction of nutrients with top off water and to keep feeding to a minimum. There are several ways to do this. We recommend removal of dissolved solids by means of a reverse osmosis system for water changes and top off water. It is helpful to use a de-ionization unit after the RO unit. Another source of nutrients comes from fishes. Their fecal matter, as well as uneaten food, adds to accumulation of nutrients in the water. Feeding small portions with the pumps turned off keeps food from drifting into the decoration and limits the resulting decomposition process of nitrite (NO2), nitrate (NO3), and phosphate (PO4). The amount and type of fishes should be adapted to the type and size of the system. 9. Addition of elements at low levels Low nutrients, of course, also apply to the addition of elements. We advise against high amounts of additives in this environment because problems will occur sooner or later. I attribute these problems to the slow, but steady accumulation of unused substances. In this case, less is often more. Many of the added elements have toxic effects on the animals if they reach certain levels and, therefore, bring more disadvantage than advantage. This is the point that requires some kind of change in the train-of-thought with this system. Regular addition of elements in very small amounts and scheduled water changes are enough to avoid deficiencies in the corals. It is impossible to recommend certain amounts since every tank is different. The kind of equipment, as well as stocking of the tank, requires high levels of individuality. The observation skills of the person taking care of the corals are very important. One must keep in mind that additions in this environment have delayed reactions of 2-3 days. This fact is very important when adding elements. We recommend, when dosing elements with unknown effects, to dose carefully and only once. Wait a few days and observe your corals reactions. A very helpful parameter is the coloration of your corals. The tissue should remain light and the coloration should be intense as they display in nature. Provided that measurable parameters of nitrate (NO3) and phosphate (PO4) are consistently at low levels, any darkening of tissues and disappearance of coloring is almost always an indication of over dose. In our opinion, this is a much better indicator than the questionable results of many test kits. Sometimes the visual observation can lead to great differences in concentration readings due to the subjective interferences required in these test kits. As long as parasites are not an issue, subdued colors and dark or brown tissue is, in most cases, is the result of high nutrients. It can be assumed that either nitrate (NO3) or phosphate (PO4) is present or too many other elements are available. We do not recommend the addition of the following products from the start. Allow the necessary time for your corals to adjust to the new environment. We recommend dosing these products after coral tissue becomes lighter. The proper time to do this can vary greatly and depends on your tanks starting nutrient load. The following reactions can be observed when dosing the described elements and should help in determining dosing rates: Potassium iodide / fluoride concentrate: The addition of this supplement leads to improved blue colors in SPS. In contrast to PVP iodide or Lugols Iodide solution, there is no tissue darkening as long as the amount is appropriate. As a starting dose we recommend to dose 1 drop per 25 gallons, however the dosing amount and interval should be adjusted to your tank. A very good indicator for dosing is yellow coral. If your yellow corals display a green shimmer, it is an indicator of over dosage of this product (or iron concentrate). When this happen, we recommend that dosing be ceased until coral colors become intense yellow again. With blue acropora, dosing should be done when colors become less intense. In most cases, dosing twice weekly at a rate of 1 drop per 100 liters should be sufficient. This supplement can also be used in tanks not using the ZEOvit® method. Iron Concentrate: The addition of iron primarily affects the green color formation. However, this element has to be treated with caution. Iron is known to increase coral growth, but also the growth of algae. You can see the same result in the density of zooxanthellae in coral tissue. Darkening of tissue suggests too much iron is being added. As an initial dosing regimen, we recommend 1 drop per 25 gallons daily. This dosing amount and interval should be adjusted accordingly. We recommend using yellow corals as indicators. Stop dosing when yellow corals display a green shimmer. Stop dosing this product (or potassium iodide / fluoride concentrate) until yellow corals become intense yellow again. In most cases, dosing twice weekly at a rate of 1 drop per 25 gallons should be sufficient. (Another indicator that your corals lack iron: red acropora turns pale pink and green acropora turns yellow.) This supplement can also be used in tanks not using the ZEOvit® method. Macro element solution (ZEOspur Macroelements concentrate) This product supports growth as well as color formation. This product does not contain the “standard” elements but rather elements missing from synthetic salt mixes. However, these elements are available at very low concentrations in natural seawater. We recommend dosing once weekly at a rate of 5 ml per 25 gallons in heavy stocked tanks and less in tanks with fewer animals. This supplement can also be used in tanks not using the ZEOvit® method. Stylo – Pocci -Glow This product “regulates” the density of zooxanthellae in pocillopora, stylophora and seriatopora. The reduction of zooxanthellae allows for better visibility of lower lying tissue colors. A general lightening of the above-mentioned species is possible with this product. It takes about 14 days to reach the highest level of coloration when using this product. We recommend dosing be stopped at that point until colors become darker again. We recommend addition at a rate of 2 drops per 25 gallons every time these coral species become darker again. Start dosing again and repeat the above steps. This supplement can also be used in tanks not using the ZEOvit® method. Amino Acid High Concentrate This product primarily aids growth as well as vitality. Our experiments have shown that corals can increase growth by up to 100%, even if placed in low light spots. Polyp extension is also maximized. We exclusively use amino acids that are available in the wild and can be utilized by the corals. We recommend dosing of 1 drop per 25 gallons daily. Over dosing is not a factor, as long as there is no problem with brown slime algae. It is possible that coral tissue darkening occurs if there is a continued overdosing. In that case, reduce the dosing amount to 1/3rd. You should not have a problem with this, if you follow the dosing instructions. However, if signs of excessive dosing occur, stop dosing for a few days until the slime build-up is gone. This supplement can also be used in tanks not using the ZEOvit® method. Amino Acid Concentrate LPS This product is a high quality food source based on amino acids, designed specifically for large polyped stony corals (LPS) such as Cynarina, Blastomusa, Welsophylia, Symphylia, Musidae, Fungias, Heliofungias, and Catalaphylia. Corals expand their tissue immediately after dosing. Regular dosing has a positive impact on coral growth. It can help in the regeneration process of damaged corals. We recommend to use this product especially during the initial change of the system to a low nutrient environment, because the slow acclimation of these coral species. We recommend dosing 1 ml per 50 gallons daily. Reduce the dosing amount if the tissue color of the corals becomes browner. Trace element solution (ZEOspur2) It is possible with this product to influence the amount of zooxanthellae in the coral tissue. The coral itself has more energy for growth because the zooxanthellae density requires less energy. This is possible for acropora, anacropora and montipora. The reduction of zooxanthellae in the outer layers brings out the colors of the coral from deeper layers. ZEOspur2 is also able to influence colors. However, the primary color shown will be the color right below the layer with the zooxanthellae. It is possible to reduce the amount of zooxanthellae so much that the coral will not get enough energy via photosynthesis. This condition can be maintained for a long period of time without damage to the coral. However, our experiments have shown that continued overdosing, and only under this condition, coral tissue will become thinner and thinner and ultimately completely dissolve. We recommend dosing every 14 – 21 days. It is important to apply the full dose all at once or there will no be any changes. The reduction of zooxanthellae occurs within 48 hours and also reaches its highest point at that time. The reaction and, therefore, the dosing amount are different from tank to tank. We recommend starting at 50 % of the recommended amount to get a feel for the product. Subsequently, you can increase the dosing amount, not the interval, by 10% each time to find the perfect dosing amount. The maximum dosing amount is 1 ml per 25 gallons and should not be exceeded. We do not recommend the use of this product during the initial starting phase of the ZEOvit® system. There is too much change and your corals will not have enough time to adjust safely. We would like to mention at this point that this product has the fastest and most drastic impact of the whole system. The optimum dosing, in this case, is absolutely necessary in order not to damage your corals. Pohl’s Coral Vitalizer (Natural Coral Food) Our new coral food is now available after extensive development. This concentrate contains both liquid and solid elements, providing food to SPS corals and as well as several soft corals. It does not contain phosphates (PO4) or nitrates (NO3). Positive effects can be noticed after 7 – 10 days if the dosing is daily. You will notice increased polyp extension, even during the light period, after the corals have had a chance to get used to the new food source. This food source does not increase the zooxanthellae reproduction even if overdosed. Corals retain their bright, natural color and increased growth. The bottle should be stored in a refrigerator and has a shelf live of 12 months. We recommend daily dosing (during the dark period if possible) of 1 – 3 drops per 25 gallons. Adjust the dosing amount accordingly to your tank stocking level. Pohl’s Coral Snow Coral Snow is a liquid form secondary biological facilitator for elements such as Bbalance and Potassium-Iodide/Flouride Concentrate. It is also compatible with Amino Acids and Coral Vitalizer. Coral Snow contains a natural calcium-magnesium carbonate among other ingredients. The particles as well as the other compounds can be taken up directly by the corals. Coral Snow neutralizes unwanted acids and yellowing compounds and can be beneficial in the prevention of e.g. slime algae and cyano bacteria. We dose Coral Snow daily, every time with a different element, The necessary amount of Coral Snow is poured into a small container and mixed with the to be dosed element. Gently mix and let it sit for about 5 minutes. Then add it directly to the tank at an area with high water flow. You can use 0.5 to max. 4 ml Coral Snow per 25 gallons daily. The initial cloudiness is not harmful to fishes or even the most sensitive corals. We have been successful eliminating cyanobacteria with the help of Coral Snow. In order to do that, add 1 drop of ZEObac per 25 gallons of tank water to the Coral Snow. Dose every two days until cyanobacteria is gone. It is not necessary to turn the skimmer down or off during dosing. You will notice the water is extremely clear after the initial cloudiness disappears. It appears very similar to when fresh activated carbon is placed into a tank. Please be aware that the clear water in combination with intense lighting can initially burn your corals. We recommend you raise your lights for about a week if that occurs. B-Balance B-Balance contains important minerals and additives. We set out to find why blue cespitularia spp. stop growing and ultimately die after a few weeks or months. BBalance is a supplement that allows you to keep and propagate these beautiful animals. We have also noticed that stony corals, especially SPS corals, react with more intense pink and red coloration if this supplement is dosed. Corals look stronger and healthier. We recommend dosing 5 ml per 250 gallons twice weekly. B-Balance adds the elements that are partially removed via skimming, especially by needle wheel skimmers, K-Balance and K-Balance Strong (Potassium Supplement) Potassium is a major element im sea water at a similar concentration as calcium, at a level of 380 – 410 mg/liter. K-Balance contains multiple potassium salts as well as two additional available elements in highly concentrated form. Our tests in several tanks with a known potassium deficiency have shown the benefits within days of dosing, resulting in improved coloration and growth throughout the tank. K-Balance adds the elements that are partially removed via skimming, especially by needle wheel skimmers, Potassium deficiency can be diagnosed in different animals as follows: Montipora, especially plating types, display slower growth and appear washed out to grey. Latent potassium deficiency may also lead to tissue loss, spreading from one or more spots. Stylophora and Pocillopora appear as if they have been exposed to air for a long period of time. Polyps are completely withdrawn and colors are light and without depth. Seriatopora may completely loose all tissue, starting from the base, within only a few days. The pink coloration may turn into a light brown. Acropora may loose their color and get lighter and pale. Growth stops completely. If the potassium deficiency continues tissue is lost, mostly starting from the base. Tubinaria Reniformis stops growth completely and withers away. Dosing K-Balance: 1 ml per 25 gallons daily until above mentioned symptoms disappear and growth resumes. Dosing can be continued at a rate of 0.2 ml per 25 gallons daily. Excessive dosing may lead to increased algae growth and is an indicator that the potassium levels are sufficient. Algae growth returns to normal 2 -3 days after stopping dosing. We have found that, depending on the salt used, older established tanks often times show low concentrations of below 200 mg/l. Larger tanks therefore require a higher concentrated and differently mixed version (K-Balance Strong). This product does not contain any other elements then potassium. Dosing K-Balance Strong: Max. 1 ml per 25 gallons every 2 hours. We recommend to start with 0.5 ml per 25 gallons every 2 hours. Pay close attention to your K – level concentrations during that time. You should stop dosing as soon as 380 mg can be measured. If you notice after two weeks that the level has dropped again, start dosing again in lower amounts until desired value is reached. Please DO NOT dose more than 1 ml per 25 gallons every two hours. WARNING: Only dose as recommended. This supplement is highly concentrated and excessive dosing can lead to death (burning) of the growth tips. TIP: To induce growth and coloration of your corals, we recommend to dose this supplement in combination with our potassiumiodide-flouride concentrate 1 – 2 times weekly per 25 gallons. To determine the potassium levels in your tank we recommend the from us for marine tanks developed K+ test. The current tank water potassium levels can be determined by looking through a test solution onto a color coded scale. Potassium levels around 380 mg do not change much if salt with sufficient potassium is used for water changes. A test every two weeks is enough in that case. Potassium levels can be raised slowly with K-Balance or K-Balance strong until the test shows a 380 mg as shown in the following picture. This picture shows a K+ concentration of approximately 380 mg/l. Each of the dosing amounts of these products depends primarily on the amount of animals in your tank. The recommended amounts and intervals are based on average well-stocked tanks. One hundred percent of all of these elements will be taken up and used by the corals. The more animals in the tank, the more amounts you should dose to make all elements available at all times. We strongly recommend adjusting the dosing regimen based on your corals. Please keep in mind that all of our products are highly concentrated and therefore require care when dosing. We hope we were able to give you a good idea on each of the products with the above points. The difference between positive and negative effects is small and it is the job of each user to determine the correct dosing amount based on the corals’ reaction. Many times, people make the mistake of increasing the dosing amount when coral colors turn pale. However, the opposite would be the correct measure to bring colors back to normal. 10. Optimum water parameters (Ca, Mg, KH, K+, salinity) Parallel to a low nutrient environment, you will also have to adjust calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), potassium (K+) and carbonate hardness (KH) to natural levels. The following concentrations have shown to work for our customers: Minimum - Maximum Ca 410 - 430 mg Mg 1250 - 1300 mg KH 6.5 - 7.5 K+ 380 - 400 mg Salinity 33 - 35 ppt Higher concentrations show no advantage. Neither growth nor coloring in SPS corals can be positively affected. However, if any of the mentioned parameters deviates too far, the result can quickly become negative in the established environment. We recommend the addition of these minerals via calcium reactor, filled with coarse coral gravel and magnesium granulates. This will keep these parameters steady and changes will not be drastic. Soak the coral gravel in reverse osmosis water for a few days to remove any phosphate from the material. The water should be changed a few times during this time. It is necessary to keep these levels and salinity stable at all times if you want to successfully keep SPS corals. Fast and drastic changes will always have a negative effect on your animals. Maintaining proper magnesium and calcium levels with only crushed coral media in a calcium reactor can be difficult at times. Synthetic salt mixes lack the right amounts of these two elements many times. Because of that, we offer special granulates (ZEOmag and ZEOca) to ensure sufficient levels of these elements. Both granulates should be mixed with the coral gravel media at a rate of approximately 10% (depending on tank requirements) before filling it into the calcium reactor. Tests have shown this “gentle” and effective method to be sufficient in providing these two elements. We recommend this method of element additions over the dosing with chlorides. Especially sensitive corals, such as Acropora suharsonoi, can be susceptible to tissue loss with additions of chlorides. The amount to be used of these granulates vary with the amount of corals and therefore is dependent on the stocking. Reduce of raise the amount based on your test results to find the „optimum“ level. Please proceed with care in order to avoid high levels of these elements. Both granulates are very effective. The suitability of natural coral sand for this purpose can vary greatly depending on the point of origin. We recommend testing your material for PO4 by soaking it in RO/DI water for several days. This water can now be tested for PO4. We recommend not using highly polluted coral sand. However, you can always use some kind of phosphate absorber for your calcium reactor effluent. These products can also be used in tanks not employing the ZEOvit® method. At this point, we would like to offer our advice regarding exaggerated responses to “measurable” problems. Many times, it is a test error or the result of expired or inappropriately stored test kits. We recommend another test before taking any corrective measures. Recent studies have shown that some of the results of test kits used in this hobby can differ greatly from the true values. It is very beneficial to use real salt water (from where the corals originated) for calibration to measure KH, Ca, Mg, K+ and salinity. This will ensure that the measurable values are at least close to the natural conditions. In order to avoid any losses, please stick to the recommendations. Changes in salinity should be conducted very slowly and we recommend not exceeding weekly changes of max. 1 0/00. The easiest way to increase the salinity is the addition of salt to the top-off water. This will ensure a slow and steady increase of salinity. Reefer’sBest Salt The success of of keeping SPS corals greatly depends on the quality of the salt with the proper balance of elements. Our experience has shown that not every salt offered meets these criteria. The Reefer’s Best Salt is produced with utmost care, using only the highest quality chemicals following the German and European pharmacy dispensary standards. The salt dissolves completely within 10 minutes at a temperature of about 15-25 degrees Celsius if it is mixed with a strong pump. The balanced levels of the salt make it possible to reduce water changes to 5% every two weeks. 11. Regular weekly water changes To get a balanced addition of elements contained in the salt mixes, we recommend a weekly water change with the quantity depending on the amount of corals. Lightly or normal stocked tanks should get a 5 – 6% weekly water change with a good salt mix. For heavy stocked tanks, we recommend a weekly change of 10%, unless you use our “Reefer’s Best” saltmix (5% every two weeks even in heavily stocked tanks is enough). Please make sure not to raise or lower the salinity of the tank. The reason for this water change is not to export nutrients but to provide a balanced addition of elements necessary for the corals. Depending on the age of the tank and the accumulation of nutrients and elements, it may take 3-12 months for this system to show success. Our longest conversion took 11 months in a tank that had been established for 15 years. This change was done slowly and carefully without any loss of corals. Subsequently, success will occur fast and can be maintained if the above-mentioned points are followed. Patience, care, observation and the ability to control dosing of elements are the safest requirements besides the “standard” technical equipment for this system to be successful. Keeping clams, leather and soft corals, as well as LPS corals with this system is simple as you can see in our tanks that have been established for years. 12. Sufficient Water flow Sufficent water flow is another very important factor for a successful reef aquarium. We recommend approximately 10 – 20 times the water volume per hour. Please make sure that there are no areas with insufficient flow anywhere in the tank. Coral growth may hinder the flow after years and increased water flow may be required. Corals require flow to facilitate shedding (soft corals) and detritus may not be allowed to settle on their surface as it could lead to tissue damage. Very good flow can be achieved with Tunze Stream pumps which generate strong but gentle flow. 13. Use of Live Rock We recommend using the system from the start in tanks already stocked with live rock to shorten the initial cycle. Our experience has shown that it is possible to introduce corals within 2 - 4 weeks without any negative effects as long as all the other conditions are appropriate. Always use fresh live rock if possible (best if directly from the import box). The fresher the live rock the better. We recommend against using old or foul live rock as well as dead or artificial rock. This could increase the cycling time drastically and potentially introduce harmful substances. We recommend soaking reef ceramics for at least 3 months before introducing them into a system. Please keep in mind; tanks can be extremely instable during the initial cycle because the necessary bacterial balance is not established. We recommend interfering as little as possible during this phase. In addition, we recommend the use of some kind of bottom substrate. Our experience has shown that aragonite or coral sand (2 – 4 mm grain size) works the best. You should soak the material in RO water for a period of 2 weeks before use primarily to release bound phosphates. Change the water in this soaking container every two days until there is no measurable PO4. We recommend a substrate depth of about 1 – 1.5 inches. The biological system stability can be increased with this kind of substrate. We recommend against the use of pre-packaged live sand as there have been reports of problems from several users and from experience in our own system. Please feel free to contact us directly should you still have questions or problems. International support can be found online at www.aquacave.com, at our US partner www.aquasythe.com. All of our products are made exclusively by us and are not distributed by any other company or under any other names. The development of the system is based on practical tests and users experiences. All products are made in Coburg. We emphasize the optimization of the system with a complete product palette making ZEOvit® unique in the world.

AquaCare Calcium Reactors

2009-08-16T10:03:00.000-07:00

The advantages of the AquaCare Turbo Chalk Reactor: * 78 to 82% less free CO2 in the outlet: AquaCare has developed a neutralization chamber that raises the pH of the outlet to 7,0 (unit 1) or 7,3 (units 2-5). This neutralization stage lowers the growth of algae extremely. * light phosphate removal with chemo sorption. * extreme water velocity: every AquaCare Turbo Chalk Reactor is filled with special granules. The water is flowing this very high speed along this material. So, CO2 bubbles cannot be caught in the granules. The flow through the granules system is constant. No flow channels can be build as with traditional Ca reactors. * New chalk granules consisting of calcium carbonate: the new granules are dissolving 2 to 5 times better than other materials e.g. lime stone or coral stones. So the AquaCare Turbo Chalk Reactor is more effective than others. * Easy de-aeration of gases: if the CO2 is not pure, the efficiency of every chalk reactor decreases with the time. To de-aerate the AquaCare Turbo Chalk Reactor you only have to shut off the circulation pump. The inlet drives pushes out all gases. If you start the reactor again all incoming CO2 is pure. Normally the Turbo Chalk Reactor is driven with a timer - only 2 to 4 hours working per day is enough to raise calcium and hydrogen carbonate in a reef tank. * All Turbo Chalk Reactors include a CO2 bubble counter, water inlet inspection glass and a ball valve. * If you want an automatically driven reactor you need the control unit consisting of a solenoid valve, check valve, CO2 sensor, transformer and the control box. For the proper working you need a water inlet (bypass of the main pump or another small pump), an small air pump and a simple timer. Tips: To reach optimum calcium concentration in the aquarium make sure that the magnesium concentration in the water is not below 1300 mg/l (ppm) Ca and Mg Media sold separately.

R2 SOLUTIONS Moonlights & Lunar Controller

2009-08-16T09:55:00.000-07:00

Introducing full line of R2 Solution moonlights.
These lightweight durable compact strips utilize ultra blue LEDs spaced at intervals of 2 inches to ensure complete coverage resulting in a beautiful shimmering moonlight effect(Our 48” model has an incredible 24 LEDs). These compacts are designed to be installed in the same manner as regular aquarium lights, above the acrylic or glass cover. The compact size allows for the R2 Signature Series lights to easily sit beside conventional daylight lighting systems.
The R2 Moonlight Controller allows the user to set there R2 Moonlight to automatically change brightness according to the phases of the moon!
A manual mode and fixed mode are also possible. The R2 Moonlight Controller works with any of the R2 Moonlights to create the most complete moonlighting solution available!

Neptune Systems APEX Aqua Controller

2009-08-16T09:51:00.000-07:00

What more can you want from a controller? Amazing state of the art Connectivity, Expandability, with Robust timers and the Ultimate Control! Control up to 240 modules, hundreds of probes and thousands of outlets! Monitor/control Temperature, pH, ORP with digital calibration on all probes. - sleek and stylish case. - compact size 3.40″ x 4.05″ x 0.65″. - mounting holes for easy attachment to wall/stand - 7 mechanical buttons for speedy access user interface - 128 x 64 Backlight display, blue background with white characters. - high contrast, excellent display quality - Displays datalog graphs - 4 Highly customizable status displays - placement of probe names and icons can be selected by user - can scroll manually scroll between different status screens, orautomatically scroll through them. - user adjustable contrast and backlight settings. - backlight can be dimmed at night. - Audible alarms User selectable tones/songs for different warning/error types - multiple displays can used on one systems. all remote displays have the same functionality as the primary display (i.e. can configure, graph, initiate feed cycles, etc. from all displays)

Aquarium History and Popularization

2009-08-16T09:49:00.000-07:00

In the Roman Empire, the first fish to be brought indoors was the sea barbel, which was kept under guest beds in small tanks made of marble. Introduction of glass panes around the year 50 allowed Romans to replace one wall of marble tanks, improving their view of the fish. In 1369, the Chinese Emperor, Hongwu, established a porcelain company that produced large porcelain tubs for maintaining goldfish; over time, people produced tubs that approached the shape of modern fish bowls. Leonhard Baldner, who wrote Vogel-, Fisch- und Tierbuch (Bird, Fish, and Animal Book) in 1666, maintained weather loaches and newts.

In 1836, soon after his invention of the Wardian case, Ward proposed to use his tanks for tropical animals. In 1841 he did so, though only with aquatic plants and toy fish. However, he soon housed real animals. In 1838, Félix Dujardin noted owning a saltwater aquarium, though he did not use the term. In 1846, Anna Thynne maintained stony corals and seaweed for almost three years, and was credited as the creator of the first balanced marine aquarium in London. At about the same time, Robert Warington experimented with a 13-gallon container, which contained goldfish, eelgrass , and snails, creating one of the first stable aquaria. He published his findings in 1850 in the Chemical Society's journal.

The keeping of fish in an aquarium became a popular hobby and spread quickly. In the United Kingdom, it became popular after ornate aquaria in cast iron frames were featured at the Great Exhibition of 1851. In 1853, the first large public aquarium opened in the London Zoo and came to be known as the Fish House. Philip Henry Gosse was the first person to actually use the word "aquarium", opting for this term (instead of "vivarium") in 1854 in his book The Aquarium: An Unveiling of the Wonders of the Deep Sea. In this book, Gosse primarily discussed saltwater aquaria. In the 1850s, the aquarium became a fad in the United Kingdom. Germans soon rivaled the British in their interest. In 1854, an anonymous author had two articles published about the saltwater aquaria of the United Kingdom: Die Gartenlaube (The Garden House) entitled Der Ocean auf dem Tische (The Ocean on the Table). However, in 1856, Der See im Glase (The Lake in a Glass) was published, discussing freshwater aquaria, which were much easier to maintain in landlocked areas. During the 1870s, some of the first aquarist societies were appearing in Germany. The United States soon followed. Published in 1858, Henry D. Butler's The Family Aquarium was one of the first books written in the United States solely about the aquarium. According to the July issue of The North American Review of the same year, William Stimson may have owned some of the first functional aquaria, and had as many as seven or eight.
The first aquarist society in the United States was founded in New York City in 1893, followed by others. The New York Aquarium Journal, first published in October 1876, is considered to be the world's first aquarium magazine.

In the Victorian era in the United Kingdom, a common design for the home aquarium was a glass front with the other sides made of wood (made watertight with a pitch coating). The bottom would be made of slate and heated from below. More advanced systems soon began to be introduced, along with tanks of glass in metal frames. During the latter half of the 19th century, a variety of aquarium designs were explored, such as hanging the aquarium on a wall, mounting it as part of a window, or even combining it with a birdcage.

Aquaria became more widely popular as houses had an electricity supply after World War I. Electricity allowed artificial lighting as well as aeration, filtration , and heating of the water. Initially, amateur aquarists kept native fish (with the exception of goldfish); the availability of exotic species from overseas further increased the popularity of the aquarium. Jugs made from a variety of materials were used to import fish from overseas, with a bicycle foot pump for aeration. Plastic shipping bags were introduced in the 1950s, making it easier to ship fish. The eventual availability of air freight, allowed fish to be successfully imported from distant regions. In the 1960s metal frames made marine aquaria almost impossible due to corrosion, but the development of tar.
Silicone sealant allowed the first all-glass aquaria made by Martin Horowitz in Los Angeles, CA. The frames remained, however, though purely for aesthetic reasons.

There are now around 60 million aquarists worldwide. In the United States, aquarium keeping is the second-most popular hobby after stamp collecting. In 1999 it was estimated that over nine million U.S. households own an aquarium. Figures from the 2005/2006 APPMA National Pet Owners Survey report that Americans own approximately 139 million freshwater fish and 9.6 million saltwater fish. Estimates of the numbers of fish kept in aquaria in Germany suggest at least 36 million. The hobby has the strongest following in Europe, Asia, and North America. In the United States, 40 percent of aquarists maintain two or more tanks.

Red Dragon Deluxe Water Pumps

2009-08-16T09:45:00.001-07:00

Red Dragon pumps are the most efficient centrifugal pumps for internal and external use available in the Aquatic hobby today!

Using the highest quality components and patented technology they produce very high flow, and consume less energy than most competing products.

The optimized pump head geometry combined with patented drive technology and start-up electronics enables the pump to produce a high flow with very low energy consumption. This will also ensure silent operation and no start- up issues, and with less heat generation. All RED DRAGON pumps are designed to use in ultra- silent ‘lifestyle applications’ where no noise is tolerated.

Utilizing our patented Anti Calcium bypass technology, water is pushed from pump-head to the back of magnet to cool down the shaft, bearings and magnet. In return less calcification occurs, which increases the life of the pump and reduces the need for frequent maintenance. This feature is especially useful in SPS or other systems in demand of high Calcium or using Kalk dosing.

Unlike other centrifugal pumps using Ceramic bearings, only the best quality Silicon Carbide bearings are used which will last much longer than other materials, and smoother contact between shaft and bearing will produce less noise. Models RD10 and RD12 also feature Titanium motor shafts, and ALL metal components used are high grade Titanium and absolutely saltwater resistant.

EXCLUSIVE FEATURES

* Low Energy Consumption
* High flow, up to 3170GPH!
* Cool to the touch
* Submersible or external use
* Extremely silent
* No start- up issues!
* CNC pump head produced from a solid PVC Block
* Highest Quality German magnets
* Silicum Carbide bearings
* Anti Calcium Bypass
* Ozone safe
* Titanium Screws
* Easily disassembled for cleaning and maintenance
* CNC inlet and outlet with built in O-ring for direct connection of unions
* All parts can be disassembled for ease of maintenance

Vertex Mocean Wave Makers

2009-08-16T09:40:00.000-07:00

We are happy to announce the release of Mocean Oscillating wave maker.
There has been major improvements made to the body to assure flawless operation.

With Vertex Mocean 2000 Wave Maker, you can create the most natural simulation of the ocean waves in your tank without sacrificing too much space or money. The secret is in our patented rotating motor. It allows you to create waves in any direction in your tank! The moving head continually rotates back and forth to the coordinates you preset. You can even let it spin 360 degrees over and over again.

The rotating motor is designed to work with your current water pumps (including power heads). You select the amount of waves and strength yourself by using your current pump. You can simply use a more powerful pump to increase the water flow.

With Vertex Mocean 3500 Wave Maker, you can finally utilize the power of your water flows to create the most incredible True-to-Life waves that only Mocean can create. Specifically engineered to handle high-pressured flows, it can handle powerful streams and even penducted streams. In fact, Vertex Mocean 3500 Wave Maker can handle up to 3,500 GPH (1")

All the Features of Mocean 2000 Intact!
* 360 Degrees of rotation
* Precision Engineering
* Patented Wave Creation Design
* Controller with speed & angle controls
* Healthier Happier Fish
* Oxygenated water
* Improves Heater/Chiller Accuracy
* Brings food to your coral
* And more! Yup, we got'em all!

Same Look, Different Soul
Yes, everything looks exactly like the Mocean 2000, but don't be fooled. Every piece on the Mocean 3500 has been re-engineered to meet the demands of a high-pressure pump.
The same set-it-and-forget-it engineering concept has gone into the Mocean 3500. You can rely on its high-level of quality control.

Additional mounting brackets and Tunze pump attachments ( for both standard Stream and Nano Stream models) will also be available.
Supply will be limited so pre-order yours now.

Hagen Fluval EDGE 6 gal. Aquarium Sets

2009-08-16T09:37:00.001-07:00

Inspired by architectural styling, the EDGE aquarium by Hagen, a 23 L (6 US Gal) 3 dimensional water cube provides a unique visual effect capturing emotion and serenity within a contemporary setting. Sealed glass top provides high definition viewing and reduces evaporation for less maintenance. Retractable halogen lighting system, suitable for aquatic plants and casts a unique shimmering effect. Removable cover for easy aquarium and filter access. Overhead ventilation grill dissipates lamp heat and avoids moisture. Powerful easy to use EDGE filter with 3 stage filtration to ensure clear water and a healthy environment. Includes:

* Fluval EDGE 23 Liter (6 US gal.) 6 sided closed top glass aquarium. * 2 x 10 watt Low Voltage Halogen Lighting system. * 30 ml Nutrafin Aqua Plus Water Conditioner. * 30ml Nutrafin Cycle Biological Aquarium Supplement. * Care Guide. * EDGE Clip-On Power Filter

Specifications:

* Filtration: 100 gph 3-stage mechanical, chemical and biological filtration.
* Lighting: 20W (2-10W halogen bulbs) halogen light system.
* Capacity: 6 gallons.
* Dimensions: Total dimension (including Canopy) measures 16.9" x 13.7" x 14.3" high.
* The Fluval Edge aquarium measures 16.9" x 10.2" x 8.8" high.

Phyto2 Live Photoplankton

2009-08-16T09:32:00.000-07:00

What Is Phytoplankton & what does it mean to your aquarium?

Phytoplankton is a free-floating, microscopic plankton that exists naturally in the oceans, lakes, and rivers of the world. Phytoplankton, which are the bottom of the food chain, make up the primary food source for marine corals, claims, and filter feeding invertabrates.

Why Choose Phyto2? Who Manufactures It?

Phyto2 Phytoplankton is produced by marine biology professionals specifically for the home aquarium. We have taken into consideration the needs of the average home aquarist and produced a product that will provide the longest shelf life at the highest nutritional value for the most reasonable price. Keeping this in mind we are constantly refining our processes to create better and more convenient products. It is our goal to bring you the best quality live planktonic foods at the best prices so you can enjoy your hobby.Other Phytoplankton producers would like to intimidate the laymen with vague threats of unexplainable tank crashes and unexplained terms like cleaning or washing.

Phyto2 is cultured in Sterile nutrient rich seawater. It is grown out to the point where it is at its highest nutritional value and the seawater contains the least amount of nutrients. As such our harvest is already a "clean" Phytoplankton. Next the product is allowed to settle and as much culture water is removed as possible and replaced with Sterile seawater. This eliminates the probability that fertilized culture water can foul your aquarium.

What makes Phyto2 better than other live Phytoplankton?

Phyto2 Phytoplankton is a pure species of plankton suspended in purified sterile seawater. In order appreciate what this means we must first understand how Phytoplankton competes in the ocean. When Phytoplankton encounters other species of Phytoplankton, it reacts by releasing poisons to kill the other species which in turn kills itself. When you concentrate and combine different species of Phytoplankton in a closed container it competes and at some point poisons the bottle, not only limiting shelf life but reducing nutritional value.

Why not freeze dried, spray dried, or frozen Phytoplankton?

Freeze dried and other preserved products are basically dead Phytoplankton. This means if they are not ingested immediately after feeding them to the aquarium they will rot away liberating organic like phosphate and nitrogen, essentially polluting your tank. Live Phytoplankton stays alive until eaten and actually cleans your water through Photosynthesis.

Benefits of LIVE Phytoplankton include:
* No worries about dead product decomposing in the tank.
* Uneaten product actually works to CLEAN aquarium water.
* Closely matches what animals would eat in the ocean.
* Great for keeping fry tanks clean and co-cultured food enriched.

Tetraselmis Chuii Specifications:

* Green Color
* 7-10 microns
* High in both DHA and EPA
* Great for feeding rotifers, SPS, LPS, Sponge and tunicates, clams, and Brine shrimp enrichment.

Nannochloropsis Oculata Specifications:

* Green color
* 2-4 microns
* Recommended for feeding rotifers, SPS, LPS, Sponge and tunicates, clams, and brine shrimp enrichment.
* This species is commonly what is referred to as "green water".
* Great for rearing sensitive marine fry in using the Co-Culture method.

Isochrysis Galbana Specifications:

* Brown color
* 5-7 microns
* High DHA:EPA ratio
* Promotes rapid growth in young larvae.
* One of the few great feeds for delicate copepods.
* Recommended for feeding rotifers, SPS, LPS, Sponge and tunicates, clams, and Brine shrimp enrichment.
* Has strong odor gold to chocolate color and shorter shelf life.

Aiptasia Anemone

2009-08-09T12:39:00.000-07:00

The infamous Aiptasia Anemone - notice the smaller ones sprouting up on the right side of this rock.

Aiptasia is a smaller anemone that can get to be about 1 inch (3 cm) in diameter, sometimes larger, and reproduces rapidly in a saltwater aquarium with abundant nutrients. They are sometimes called aptasia, glass anemone, tube anemone and rock anemone and there are several different species. This is one anemone that saltwater hobbyists don't purchase, rather this one comes in on the live rock as a hitchhiker.

It can be difficult to see them when they are small and you obviously wouldn't want to knowingly buy live rock if you saw this pest on it at the store. They can hide inside the small crevices and rock pores only to come out weeks or months later if they are given the right conditions.

Why are they considered a pest?
Well, they are not the most attractive looking specimen, they multiply rapidly and more importantly they can sting other, more desirable corals and other reef tank inhabitants. It's a typical story... You get some new rock and a few weeks go by and you notice a small anemone starting to grow on the rock. How neat, a free anemone! Well, the honeymoon ends a few weeks or months later when you notice that your live rock starts to become overgrown with them, especially if you have a reef tank with expensive corals!

Ways to Control Aiptasia
Controlling them can be a chore. If you try to smash them or cut them they are thought to release pieces of themselves into the water, thereby multiplying even more rapidly. Listed below are some natural and chemical methods for controlling aiptasia:

First, if you can, reduce the amount of nutrients available to the anemone. This may mean limiting the amounts, types and frequency of fish and coral feedings. Do you just drop in a frozen fish food cube? Defrost the frozen food first and then slowly spoon feed it to the fish. Give the fish a little, give them 30 seconds to eat it all and then spoon feed them a little more. This makes for less waste and juices entering the tank and more food for the fish instead of the filter.
Peppermint shrimp (Lysmata wurdemanni) are used by many hobbyists to eat this anemone. It can be hit or miss though. Especially if you get the wrong version of the "peppermint shrimp". There is another peppermint shrimp, Lysmata californica, that looks very similar to the wurdemanni but doesn't do the job on aiptasia that wurdemanni does.

Copperband Butterfly Fish will also eat this pest but they can pose other problems in reef tanks. They may eat and/or pick at corals. The copperband butterfly may be the better choice because it may be less inclined to eat or pick at corals than the Raccoon Butterfly but the Copperband is less hardy and more difficult to feed long-term. However, they may only eat bits and pieces of the aiptasia causing some the aiptasia to scatter and relocate in other places inside the tank.
Bergia Nudibranch (Berghia verrucicornis) are great aptasia eaters but the problem with them is they might starve once the aiptasia is gone. They can also easily be eaten by tank mates.
Calcium and Kalkwasser is thought to destroy aiptasia too. The trick is applying it directly into the anemone or on the oral disk using a syringe before it retreats into its hole.
A sting from an Elegance Coral (Catalaphyllia jardinei) is supposed to kill them. If you have one and you can pick up your elegance coral by the base, this may be an option for you.

Given the various options listed above for controlling or eradicating aiptasia from your tank can take time and there are drawbacks to each method. The favored option for us is to use the peppermint shrimp (Lysmata wurdemanni).

Protein Skimmer

2009-08-09T12:34:00.000-07:00

A protein skimmer, also sometimes referred to as a foam fractionator, is a piece of aquarium equipment that is primarily used in saltwater aquariums in order to remove dissolved organic compounds (DOC) and other harmful substances that if not removed can breakdown in the aquarium or filter adding to the biological load on an aquarium.

Protein skimmers remove these hydrophilic substances completely from the water using air bubbles that are collected in a collection cup. As air and water are mixed in the skimmer chamber the bubbles rise and take with them the dissolved organics that are attracted to the bubble surface. When the bubbles with the proteins, amino acids and other nasty stuff bubble up the tube into the collection cup they are completely removed from the aquarium. Unlike a mechanical filter that just traps solids but still exposes them to the aquarium as the water continues to flow over them all the while these solids are breaking down and adding to the total bio-load on a tank. Skimmers could possibly be consider one of the most significant advances for the saltwater hobbyist.

Think about the ocean for a minute. You know how as the waves crash on shore you will sometimes notice sea foam? This is similar to the way protein skimmers function. Air is mixed with water and then the dirty bubbles (foam) are placed on shore, only with a protein skimmer this foam is removed from the system via the collection cup.

Skimmer Benefits

Skimmers increase the dissolve oxygen levels and redox potential in an aquarium
They remove dissolved organics before they get a chance to breakdown and become a food source for nuisance algae
By removing dissolved organics the aquarium water clarity does not age or yellow as quickly since the DOC buildup is less allowing light to penetrate deeper into the tank for the benefit of corals and other inverts.
Can help lead to a more stable pH since less dissolved organics are in the system.
Overall improvement in the health and vigor of the animals in the aquarium since their wastes are being removed from the system via the collection cup.

Although it is my opinion that a protein skimmer's positives far outweigh the negatives I still have to mention that there are some drawbacks to using a skimmer.

Skimmer Drawbacks

Can be very to extremely expensive
They can remove beneficial bacteria as well as phytoplankton and other desirable organisms from a system.
They can remove trace elements that may need to be replenished or supplemented, such as Iodine. Other elements are most likely removed as well and if partial water changes are not practiced on a regular basis your system could become unbalanced chemically, i.e. not have the proper proportion or ratio of trace elements to major elements. Regular partial water changes with properly mixed saltwater will prevent this from happening.

Do I really need to a protein skimmer?

One of the first questions new saltwater hobbyists seem to ask is whether they really need a protein skimmer for their first setup. Especially when they start to shop for a skimmer. The short answer is NO, you don't have to run a protein skimmer on your setup. There are many hobbyists that run successful systems without them. However, these hobbyists also realize the importance of regular partial water changes for the aquarium and how important water changes are to the health and well being of the animals in their care.

By not running a skimmer you really do need to stay on top of those water changes. Otherwise you will start to see nuisance algae growths cropping up all over the place, especially if you have high output lighting like metal halides, T5's or VHO flourescents. The inital expense of getting a good protein skimmer is justified in the peace of mind it gives the hobbyist and the overall water quality improvement it can provide. I'm telling ya, once you see and smell your first collection cup full of gunk that is removed from your aquarium you will be hooked on skimmers. The way most systems are stocked nowadays (rarely are they understocked) skimmers should be pulling out at least a cup full of skimmate from the system daily. Do you really want that amount of dissolved organics accumulating in your tank in between water changes? Me neither.

Running a system without a skimmer and without live rock would seem to be someone that is just trying to A) set themselves up for failure or B) they like bashing their heads against walls. If you're planning on a system without live rock and no protein skimmer I would simply ask, why? Make the system as easy to maintain as possible and chances are you will be able to enjoy it more.

Skimmer Types

Really? You want to cover this? Ok, if you say so. If your mind starts to glaze over mid-read, you've been warned. Basically, the object here is to find the best way to create lots of tiny bubbles and to provide the optimal contact time with the organics so they can attach to the bubbles and then rise as a foam into the collection cup. The body style of the skimmer can be an important design consideration when utilizing any of the methods of creating bubbles. Here are a few ways to make bubbles:

Co-current skimmers: These were some of the first used and they had an airstone at the bottom of the chamber providing the air bubbles. The air bubbles rose vertically and were collected into a cup. Actually, these skimmers even today are good skimmers. The wooden air stones (finer bubbles) just have to be replaced regularly.

Counter Current skimmers: The air/water mixture is forced through a counter-current of aquarium water in the body of the skimmer. This is supposed to give a longer contact time for the bubbles to attract the organics.

Venturi skimmers: These use a venturi valve to mix in air with the water. These valves are usually situated on the intake tube coming into the skimmer.

Needle Wheel Skimmers: These use a spoked wheel that spins and chops up the incoming water producing fine bubbles. There are also mesh wheel skimmers that function in a similar way.

Spray Induction: As the aquarium water comes into the skimmer it is forced through a spray nozzle that creates a lot of tiny bubbles.

Downdraft and Beckett: These skimmer types use proprietary parts to mix the air and water to create the glorious bubbles we love. Some of the larger protein skimmers are these types of skimmers.

Knowing how a skimmer creates it's bubbles could be a consideration for the hobbyist. Some are more popular than others. It really comes down to doing your research, just like everything else in this hobby. Are you going to pick a skimmer just because it's a downdraft skimmer? Of course not. You are going to come to a decision based on reviews from other hobbyists or first hand experience with a unit.

Skimmer Maintenance

When shopping for a protein skimmer it is very important to include in your decision making the methods and ease of maintenance on the product before buying one.

-How easy is it to empty and clean the collection cup? This is a daily task and collection cup design is a very important factor.

-How easy is it to get into the skimmer with your arm for scrubbing the walls? You won't be cleaning the walls except maybe every 6 months to annually.

-How easy is it to clean the bubble creation device? Can you easily get to it with a small bottle brush?

Cleaning the collection cup should be done daily for optimum performance. As residue builds up on the neck of the cup it can impede the rising of the foam and ultimately the amount of gunk that you remove from the system.

To Skim Wet or Dry?

Another thing to consider is whether you want to skim wet or skim dry? Skimming wet is simply lowering the collection cup and/or increasing the air flow so that it removes more skimmate albeit less dense and lighter colored organics from the system. Skimming dry is raising the collection cup and removing only the nastiest stuff from the system. Skimming wet means more freshwater water top-offs, more salinity checks with the refractometer and possibly testing more often for depleted iodine levels. Skimmer dry means less water top-offs but possibly more dissolved organics left in the system.

There are even those hobbyists out there that utilize wet skimming as a part of their water change schedule. Skimming wet lets them remove the most dissolved organics and as they are monitoring their salinity levels they may notice that it will start to drop as they skim wet. When doing water top-offs you will want to make up for the lost salinity by using pre-mixed and aged saltwater to make up for what was lost via the wet skimming. A bonus to skimming wet is that the neck doesn't accumulate as much protein gunk around the inside of the neck on the collection cup, so a little bit less maintenance on a day to day basis.

The decision is totally up to the aquarist. Only you know how well your skimmer works on your particular system and you know your own maintenance habits. Some find a good middle ground between wet and dry skimming. There is no right answer here that covers all situations.

Parting Thoughts...

Skimmers can be a valuable asset for your saltwater aquarium. They can help create a more stable environment for your animals and a healthier one too. If you just can't afford a decent protein skimmer you should honestly rethink the whole saltwater thing, at least for now. Especially for a beginner to the hobby our goal here is to make sure you have all the tools you need to succeed while having fun. Save up enough money until you can afford one a later date. You will be glad you did.

One last thing, skimmers are very expensive and the old saying that "you get what you pay for" certainly has some merit with skimmers. Trying to go the inexpensive route will often end up costing you more in the long run. I've been there and done that. Don't waste your money on a cheap skimmer. This piece of aquarium equipment is just too important. Get a good one from the start after researching them thoroughly.

Electrical Safety and Aquariums

2009-08-09T12:32:00.000-07:00

Safety around the aquarium, electrical safety in particular, is a subject all aquarists should be concerned about. The possible fatal consequences of the combination of water and faulty electrical equipment is something we all should bear in mind. One of the basic rules of aquarium management that I have seen in several aquarium books is to turn off all electrical power to the aquarium before putting your hand in -the water. However, hands up all those who have ignored this rule; I bet there are not too many hands still down.

The amount of current needed to give a person an electric shock is surprisingly low. With a 240 volt supply, a current of only 10 milliamps through your body to earth can give a painful shock, and a current above 50 milliamps is likely to be fatal. Not very much when a 200 watt beater draws something like 800 milliamps. While the possibility of a dangerous failure in modern commercial aquarium equipment is very, very slight, nevertheless a risk still exists. I've never seen any report of a person being killed by a shock from their aquarium in Australia but I have seen a report in an English newspaper of this happening, and have vague recollections of reading that several people die each year in the U.S.A. by electric shocks from their aquariums.

If your aquarium equipment is plugged into a normal household switchboard, with standard circuit breakers, it is highly unlikely that they will cut-out in the event of a fault in the equipment leading to a possible leak to earth of the low magnitude needed to cause a bad shock. Fortunately there is a simple, but unfortunately fairly expensive, safety measure which can be taken. This is to install a CORE BALANCE EARTH LEAKAGE CIRCUIT BREAKER, or ELCB for short, into the wiring system for your aquariums.

These devices work by continually monitoring the current in both the active and neutral wires of the circuit, and if a fault develops in the circuits leading to the leakage of current to earth, then the device instantaneously breaks the circuit. They are set to break the circuit only above a certain current loss, since some home appliances such as water heaters and freezers naturally have small current losses. The cut-off level ranges from 10 milliamps to 30 milliamps, with 30 milliamps being suitable for the aquarium.

Three types of ELCB are available. The first is wired into the main switchboard of a house and can give protection to all power points in the house, not just the aquarium power point. I'm not sure of the cost of this in Canberra, but with installation by a qualified electrician, it could be around $200 or more.

The second is a wall mounted model, which is a straight replacement for a standard wall socket and looks very similar. Installation is straight forward and most would feel confident about doing the work themselves The only possible complication is if the socket is part of a ring circuit with more than three wires going into the socket. If in doubt, get an electrician to do the installation. The cost of a wall mounted model is about $80 at one of the specialist electrical shops at Fyshwick. They are rarely to be found at the general hardware stores.

The third type of ELCB are portable models. These are self-contained units which plug into a standard socket and into which you plug your aquarium equipment, similar to an extension cord. They have the advantage of being able to be used wherever needed around the house, for instance with power saws hedge trimmers etc. but are quite expensive. The only one I've seen in Canberra was over $100. If you would require a wall mounted model to be installed by an electrician they may be worth considering, but their portability is largely wasted in an aquarium setting because it is virtually never free to use for other applications.

The choice of whether to install an ELCB or not is up to the individual. They are expensive; $80 would buy a nice power filter, let you set up that extra breeding tank, or buy some very nice fish, but what's the point if you aren't around to enjoy it. Me, I've put off buying that Eheim filter I've had my eye on for a while!

White Worms

2009-08-09T12:28:00.000-07:00

White worms are an excellent live food for fish and are incredibly easy to raise. White worms (Enchytraeus albidus) are, well, white-colored worms which range in size from approximately 3/4" to1 1/2". If you are familiar with other live foods, they fall between tubifex and grindal worms in size. White worms are particularly good for conditioning fish for spawning. They are eagerly eaten by most fish and are suitable for a wide range of fish since their size is appropriate even for the smaller fish. They should, however, be fed as part of a varied diet since some sources consider them to be excessively fatty. The actual breakdown (see source below) is approximately: protein 70.0, fats 14.5, ash 5.5, carbohydrates 10.0.

White worms are very easy to culture. The hard part, it turns out, is finding the starter culture of white worms, since they are usually not found in local fish stores. However they can often be purchased from aquarium society auctions, or from other hobbyists. There are also a number of biological supply companies and live food retailers on the Internet which list starter cultures for sale for around $5 - $10.

To house my white worms I use a plastic shoebox. You can often find these handy containers on sale for as little as $1 at department and hardware stores. Worms need to "breathe", so if the cover is airtight (although most are not) cut a hole in the cover and fill the hole with a piece of open-celled foam. If the cover fits loosely, then there is no need for a hole.

Fill the container about with about 3-4 inches of peat moss, or a 50/50 mixture of peat moss and potting soil. Add water to wet the peat. The wetness should be such that tightly squeezing the peat should result in a few drops, but not a stream of water, dripping from the mass. Somewhere between damp and wet is the best way I can describe it.

Add your starter culture of worms, and some food. Although many articles recommend milk-soaked bread for feeding the worms, in my experience this seems to go moldy too fast, although you may have better luck. From various raffles I have a large excess of old goldfish flake food, which is what I usually feed my worms. I also feed dry bread crumbs. To rapidly expand the population, my secret ingredient is cooked rice. White worms must love cooked rice, because I always get masses of white worms when feeding rice. When first starting the worm culture, it is probably best to bury the food to stave off mold. The trick here is to feed the worms enough so that they reproduce quickly, but not so much that the food goes uneaten long enough to become moldy. If you do get some mold, just spoon it out and add fresh food (but not so much this time!). Once your worm colony is thriving, you should be able to leave the food on the surface, which will facilitate harvesting of worms, as the worms gather on the surface to eat.

When the worm population is really going, the worms will form in big clumps near, and on top of, the food. Just use blunt tweezers to grab a blob of worms and drop them into the fish tank. Once the fish realize that the white things wriggling in the water are food and are tasty, they will eagerly snatch them up as soon as they hit the water. White worms like it fairly dark, and will start to dig back into the dirt once the shoebox cover is removed, so I usually gather all the worms I need as soon as I open the cover, put them into a cup, and then take my time dropping the worms into the individual tanks.

It has also been suggested that white worms, like grindle worms, will gather under a glass placed on top of the soil. I haven't tried this yet, but if so, if should be a nice clean way to gather worms.

If you need to gather a large amount of worms, another method is to put worm-laden soil into a sieve with its bottom barely submerged in water. Position a light directly over this set-up. The heat and light will eventually drive the worms out the bottom of the sieve and into the water, ready for feeding.

At times I have noticed that the population will get extremely dense, so dense that the worms are actually crawling up to the lid. Because the culture will sometimes crash at this density, I usually remove about half of the soil (with its worms) to a new container, and add more fresh damp peat moss to each container. Because cultures sometimes crash, I make sure to always keep at least two cultures going. This also evens things out as production fluctuates.

For maintenance, just throw in more food every few days and add some more water if the soil starts to become dry. Worm cultures are fairly hardy and can survive weeks, possibly months, of neglect (as long as they don't dry out)- although they may need care and feeding before you will be able to harvest enough to feed fish again. White worms usually do better at cooler temperatures. My apartment is usually on the cool side, so I don't have any problems, although I sometimes get less worms during the hottest days of the summer. Therefore a cool corner, or basement may be the best place to keep worm shoeboxes.

Right now, I am experimenting with a "worm condo!" I found an inexpensive plastic organizer consisting of three plastic drawers, each about the size of a shoebox, and have been starting cultures of white worms in each drawer. So far it seems to be a success, and with the rice trick, the cultures are already producing almost enough to feed the fish. Three stories of white worms- my fish are salivating in anticipation!

Raising Vinegar Eels

2009-08-09T12:26:00.000-07:00

Vinegar eels are among of the easiest and most inexpensive of all live foods to raise. I have one culture that has been going for just over three years with no attention at all. Now, I don't recommend ignoring your live food cultures, but I think this shows just how durable these little creatures are. If you have time between raising fish with extremely small fry, the culture will be there when you need it. I have fed vinegar eels to killifish, rainbows, anabantids, livebearers, cichlids, and catfish fry.

To raise vinegar eels you need a glass container. I use quart spaghetti sauce jars, but any size will do. I know of one person who uses gallon drum fish bowls. Save the lids; I leave the lid on loosely to keep dust and insects out of the culture. The ingredients for the culture are apple cider vinegar, aged tap water (do not use aquarium water), a start from another culture, and a small piece of apple (optional). I use a 50/50 blend of the cider and aged tap water. If you have very hard tap water, you will need 60% vinegar. Be sure to use undistilled apple cider vinegar because no other vinegar will work as well. It takes two to three weeks at room temperature out of direct sunlight for the culture to product enough eels to begin feeding them to your fish.

When the culture is ready to harvest, you will need a small clear glass, a small funnel, a coffee filter, and an empty jar. Pour 70% of the culture through a coffee filter (folded twice it fits perfectly in the small funnel I use) into the empty jar. The coffee filter will catch the adult vinegar eels. Allow the filter to drain well then turn it upside down into the clear glass which is filled with aged tap water. If you hold the glass up to the light, or shine a flashlight through the glass, you will see thousands of eels. These can be poured directly into your tank. I swish the coffee filter out in a tank containing adult killifish or livebearers. The culture that went through the coffee filter still contains eels that were too small to be caught by the filter. These can be divided up to start new cultures, or added back to the original one.

If you have spawned fish with small fry and had difficulty raising them, this is one food that will prove successful. Feeding live food to your fish from the beginning will speed up the rate of growth and improve their health and vitality.

Glass Worm

2009-08-09T12:23:00.000-07:00

Surprisingly, glass worms (Chaoborus crystallinus) are not worms at all, they are white mosquito larvae (phantom midge larvae), and the fly they transform into is a so-called non-biting insect (gnat).

In my area glass worms are most readily available, through my local pet shop, in the winter time. The larvae are transparent in appearance giving a spooky look. They are usually half an inch in size and have two black dots in the body (which can be seen). Surprisingly these black dots are actually air sacs that work like a swim bladder.

Glass worms usually swim in a horizontal manner and the air sacs inflate and deflate to move up and down in the water. The larvae breathe through the end of their abdomen and have two eyes at the front of the body, with a claw protruding as if ready to grab something or hook onto it. The claws can be used to grab smaller creatures (especially small fry), so feed cautiously if very small fish or fry are present in your aquarium. The claws are actually hinged antennae which can be snapped together, thus giving the appearance of claws.

The size of a glass worm can vary from half an inch to almost two inches in length (frozen and live). Your fish should love these easily digestible 'see-through' worms because of the chase and kill or chase and swallow opportunities they will get.

I don't know the exact timing as to when the flies mate. but in other temperate areas adult flies emerge and mate in June/July. When the larvae pupate and grow into the mosquitoes the females lay eggs in jelly-like discs on the surface of the water. The larvae then hatch out and start wriggling about in the water.

Glass worms can be found in ponds hanging horizontally (usually) but you must look very carefully because, due to their transparent appearance, they are difficult to spot, and it is usually movement that makes them appear more visible.

There are two opinions of the hatching process and development stage of the larvae:

1. Because the glass worms are the young stage of the fly, it won't take long before they change into pupae and complete their life cycle by transforming themselves into flying mosquitoes. This transformation process can take up to three weeks, so the amount of time they will be available for fish food is limited by the timing of their life cycle.

2. But according to the Offwell Wildlife Trust (Devon), after mating the flies (which live for about ten days) lay eggs as soon as possible and these eggs quickly hatch. Larval development will take about a year so the larvae (glass worms) will be around all winter.

The local pet shop owner told me that his previous live food supplier had informed him that:-

1. Glass worms can survive in water that has not been treated with de-chlorinator. So if you place them in water not treated for chlorine they will still survive.

2. He had read an article in which brine shrimps and glass worms were laboratory examined to see which had higher protein levels - glass worms won.

3. Despite appearing empty and transparent glass worms helped to stimulate colours in live stock to which they were fed.

4. Glass worms can live for a couple of weeks or more in coldwater. This would be useful to we aquarists as it would allow us to keep our stock of glass worms alive a little longer for extended feeding to our fish. Of course we would need to make regular water changes to any container housing glass worms either indoors or in a fridge.

If I had met this supplier I would have asked the question 'Why are glass worms only available during the winter time and not on a regular basis?'
To answer my own question I assume the following possibilities:

c. Suppliers may turn to glass worms at a time of the year when other regular live foods, e.g. daphnia, are unavailable. Frozen glass worms, sold as 'white mosquito larvae' are relished by my fish just as much as the live form.

Finally, I have heard mixed views about glass worms, e.g. some aquarists say they are nutritious whilst others believe this not to be the case. Regardless of these opinions if your fish or other livestock love glass worms then keep on feeding them. As responsible aquarists you should give your fish a well-balanced and varied diet.

Lettuce Have Infusoria

2009-08-09T12:21:00.000-07:00

This is one way of getting infusoria easily, quickly, cheaply and without much fuss. Bits and pieces of the information have come from books and ideas other people have had and also our own, mixed together, which has given us good results.

Before you start you'll need 30-40 litres of aged tap water which will see you through the early stages of keeping this culture.

Items needed are 1 large 24-36 litre plastic tub, the size maybe larger or smaller to suit your particular needs. This should be washed out well with warm salty water then rinsed well.

Now we want the main ingredient, lettuce. We go down to a fruit and vege. shop and just ask for the lettuce leaves they throw away and get a bag full costing nothing; you can't get it any cheaper than that and they don't seem to mind.

Pick out the best whole leaves and give them a quick wash to get the dirt off, then squeeze the excess water and scrunch and break the leaves up and place into a bucket. We use 1 large lettuce leaf per litre of water. After you have the amount needed in your bucket pour on enough boiling water to cover then place this outside and allow to cool.

The next day pour this into the tub and add enough aged tap water to fill the tub. Place in a shady position that is sheltered. In about a week you should have green water with some infusoria and in about 2 weeks it should be booming.

Each time after you have drawn the amount you want for the day's use, top it up with aged water. Keep a bucket of aged water next to the tub for this. This helps to put oxygen into the infusoria and keeps it going and fresh. Every now and then more lettuce should be added also to keep it going.

If it is not used regularly it will probably go off. Throw it away, clean the tub thoroughly with salty water, rinse, then start all over again.

Live Foods: Earthworms

2009-08-09T12:10:00.000-07:00

Summer is just around the corner and I’ve got a real bad case of Spring fever. It seems to get worse every year. This is the time of the year when cheap fish food becomes available. What I mean by “cheap” is free food. All you have to provide is time and the containers. Grasshoppers, crickets, and earthworms are starting to show up in the yards, parks, and fields. We’ll get to the first at a later date, the good old earthworm is the subject of the day. How many of you want a fish food that is good for your fish? I mean one that is natural, high in protein and has very low maintenance. Earthworms fit that bill. They are not on the list of foods that fish eat naturally but they eat them anyway. I started my cultures over a year ago when curiosity took hold along with the expense of keeping my larger cichlids and catfish fed properly. I had read several articles on keeping earthworms as fish food. Some people had no luck at all and others had complete success. The people who didn’t have success didn’t seem to give it enough time before harvesting. Others only used one culture or an improper medium.

Earthworms have been farmed for generations just for the fish bait and garden stores. You can go to the library and pick out several books on worm farming and cut it down to suit your needs. If you can, set one up outside. I don’t have that option. For me to set up a worm bed for my fish would be like asking for self-torture. So, a way to set-up an indoor worm culture was my only option. I first went out to a nearby park after a rainstorm collecting some night crawlers just to make sure that my fish would eat this new food. I knew they would, but why go through all of the work if they were going to refuse them? Well, I am sorry to say not a worm survived and some of my fish went on a hunger strike for a few days. Now I’ve spoiled them.

The easiest way to get started is to buy your worms from a farm. You can get a thousand for less than $20.00. That includes shipping and they come to your front door. Mine came from a farm in Bronwood, GA. The cost was $16.00 for the first thousand. That’s under one cent apiece! How’s that for cheap? If you buy bigger lots it gets even cheaper. Where do you find this place? Look in the back of Outdoor Life magazine for the ads under live bait. You will have many choices. I chose critters called “Red Wrigglers”. These are small, About 3"-4" in length and less than the diameter of a pencil around. Perfect for my needs. They showed up at my door in a little plain brown box with bright hot pink lettering that said “LIVE EARTHWORMS!”. Just joking about the color, but it's amazing how the word “Live” can be read by family members even when they’re in another room. I was asked what on earth I was going to do with them. “Fish food” was the answer and everybody rolled their eyes. They think I’m nuts.

To get started you need the following:
2 - Plastic sweater boxes (12" x 8" x 5" - larger if room allows)
1 - 8lb. bag Sterile peat moss, no fertilizers
1 - 8lb. bag Sterile Canadian sphagnum moss/peat moss mix, no fertilizers
1 - Starter culture of worms
Water

Now the fun begins! Just kidding; this is real easy. Mix the two kinds of peat moss at a 50/50 ratio in the sweater box. I use the Canadian moss because it helps hold moisture longer without getting packed down too much. This helps when it comes time to feed the worms. After it is mixed (it doesn’t have to be perfect, the worms will do the rest) add some water, just enough to make the soil damp. The best way to check this is to grab some soil in you hand and if you can squeeze a drop of water out of it, it’s just about right to get started. In time you will know just how damp, not moist, to keep your cultures. Make some holes in the lid about the size of a pencil. Don’t make too many at first, only about 6 - 8. These are to control humidity. You will probably have to make some more later on depending on how tight the lid fits. For example, I have one box with 14 holes and another with 23. This also comes into play if you stack your cultures. I chose not to. Split your culture up between the two boxes. You can use the medium that they were shipped in also. It won’t hurt anything.

Feeding is easy. Use oatmeal, corn meal, instant potatoes, old bread and mashed potatoes. Any of the above dry foods can be sprinkled on top of the medium with a little water. I like to make a hole in the middle of the culture and bury the food. This keeps the medium from getting compacted. If you use leftover mashed potatoes or pasta, make sure it is free of any butter, margarine, or oil. Gravy is optional (not really). The food should be in pure form with no condiments. Feed the culture only after the prior food is consumed. This will take 4 to 7 days depending on the size and density of the culture. It takes about 3 months for the reproduction cycle to get into full swing. I know it will be hard but leave them alone except for feeding. Check on them from time to time and you will start to find little ones. What I am going to do and will have started by the time you read this is to pull the breeders from the two main cultures to start a third. I won’t mess with that one except to feed and add breeding stock. This will give me more of a culture base to work with.

When it comes time to feed my fish, I just dig some up, wash them off and toss them into the tank I want to feed. For the smaller fish I’ll take a worm by one end hold it over the tank and cut it up with a pair of scissors. These are my scissors. A word of warning: don’t use the scissors that are lying in the kitchen drawer. There IS HELL TO PAY if you are caught using them to cut up worms. This is from first hand experience. Go buy your own. It’s much safer. Here’s one last little bit of advice. I’ve had some small insects inhabit the surface of several different types of soil based worm cultures. I think these are mites. I know this sounds bad but these little guys keep the surface of the medium clean and free from mold and fungus. This is a guess, but on a culture of white worms that didn’t have these insects, mold, fungus and other crud got so out of control I had to throw it out. These mites are just there for the free meal. Keep the culture fed and they will keep it clean. They have never been a problem for me. I hope some of you will give this a try. I keep cultures under my bookstand in my fish room out of sight. Now I have plenty of food for practically nothing. Give earthworms a try, if it doesn’t work just throw them in the garden. It’ll make up for the scissors incident. Have fun growing your live foods.

The Ideal Worm Culture

2009-08-09T12:09:00.000-07:00

Worms are a very high protein live food that is eaten eagerly by almost all species of tropical fish. Although they can be overfed because of their high fat content, usually the problem is to get enough of them to feed your fish. George Coy has been making black worms available to club members at SWMAS meetings, and that has been a great help. However, smaller fish and fry cannot eat black worms, and it takes a lot of newly hatched brine shrimp to get them to the size where they can eat them. With the high price of brine shrimp eggs, a good substitute would be in order.

Grindal worms seem to be ideal to fill this gap. They are very thin and only about one-fourth of an inch long. I have seen fry eat worms longer then themselves! Usually after only about two to three weeks on newly hatched brine shrimp, most fry can handle grindal worms. Yet they are large enough for most larger fish to see and eat. Fish up to two and one-half inches to three inches relish them. Still something was needed for larger fish.

I bought a red worm culture a few years ago to feed my larger fish. One day a white fuzz was noticed on the soil surface after feeding oatmeal. I thought it might be fungus, baby red worms, or egg cases, but on close examination they were grindal worms. The two species seemed to thrive together, and when I tried to establish a culture of only the grindal worms, they did not do well at all. Possibly the earthworms aerate and mix the soil for the grindal worms. They both can be very prolific.

The soil that I use is one-half of fine particle topsoil, and one-half ground cellulose worm bedding, which can be purchased at most stores that carry fishing supplies or bait. Both species seem to do well when the soil is kept very moist. Plastic sweater containers or shoeboxes with good fitting lids serve as adequate containers. Keeping the containers on the basement floor next to an outside wall can help, although both of these worms will reproduce well throughout the summer months, a plus when compared to white worms.

For feeding and best production, I sprinkle one-minute oatmeal evenly over the surface every two to three days. The amount of food is dependent on the density of the worms. If the oatmeal lasts more than one and one-half days, you are feeding too much oatmeal. On a good culture with a two to three square foot area, a handful of oatmeal will be gone in twenty-four hours. Many other foods could be used. I have neglected this culture for up to two months and the worms will survive as long as some moisture is maintained!

Although grindal worms are quite small, they can be collected in great quantities by feeding with one-minute oatmeal on the soil surface. In twelve to twenty-four hours, the soil will be coated with grindal worms and they can be scraped off with a spoon and separated by rinsing in cold water two to three times, letting them settle and pouring off the mud each time. Use a clear plastic cup, so you can see when the worms settle to the bottom. They can be fed to your fish with an eyedropper or a small baster.

The red worms that are in the culture appear to be similar to night crawlers in form, but they never get any longer than two to two and a half-inches, and are a perfect size to feed to large cichlids. They can be picked from the soil by hand or with tweezers. For smaller fish…two to four inches…I will cut them up in a cup containing water with scissors into small pieces and rinse them off before feeding.

The grindal-red worm culture feeds almost all sizes of fish, is very productive, and is easy to care for. What more could we ask for?

Raising Daphnia

2009-08-09T12:06:00.000-07:00

Key elements in the proper care of aquarium fishes would include water quality, space, temperature, fish compatibility and food. Just "feeding the fish" is easy - buy a can of flakes or pellets at a shop and be done with it. However, a thoughtful Aquarius will go beyond this most basic feeding philosophy and at least buy two types of dry food - one for morning and one for evening. Perhaps he will even buy a package of frozen shrimp for an occasional treat. Most aquarium fish will survive with such a feeding program. After all most commercially prepared foods are carefully made with fish nutrition in mind - emphasis on "most". I once bought a can of green flakes formulated for herbivores only to see on the ingredients list that animal fat had been used as a binder! If you want to take that extra step toward maintaining your fishes' health - try a live food. Live foods can provide that extra boost that moves you from "keeping them alive" toward "enticing them to breed".

One of my favorite live foods is Daphnia. Daphnia are freshwater "bugs" that are sometimes called water fleas because of their shape, size and jerky motion. Daphnia are easy to culture if you understand their requirements. They nourish themselves by filtering small edible stuff out of their water habitat. What kind of stuff? Just about any kind of plant or animal life form that is small enough and moves about or is suspended in their water. Thus, requirement number one is, do NOT put a filter in the Daphnia tank. I do use one airline, bubbling slowly. When the tank is dark the Daphnia seem to go to the bottom and become inactive which is bad for Daphnia production, so rule number two is to give them some light 24 hours a day. Daphnia need a reasonable temperature to be happy and multiply. Since my Daphnia tank is close to the floor, I keep a heater in it set at 72 degrees F.

I feed the Daphnia as follows: mix one package of dry active yeast with one cup of soy flour. (Kroger carries the soy flour). Once or twice a day I stir 1/4 teaspoon of this dry mixture into a cup of warm water. I pour this into the Daphnia tank, which clouds the water. When the Daphnia have made the water clear again by filtering out all the food, it is time to feed them again. Overfeeding will cause a crash. Crash = all dead. Experience will teach you how much to feed. I also keep some large ram horn snails in the tank which I feed a lettuce leaf once or twice a week. The snails produce infusoria, which is more food for the Daphnia. If you must be gone for a few days, just throw in a couple of lettuce leaves and the bugs won't starve while you are gone. The snails are also a good indicator of water quality. When water quality is really bad (a crash is at hand) all the snails will go to the top of the tank. With heavy feeding it doesn't take long for nitrates to reach a lethal level, but this can be prevented by proper harvesting. Never harvest by just netting out the Daphnia. Instead, siphon them into a bucket through a shrimp net, refilling the tank with clean water. The quantity of water to remove depends on the size of your Daphnia tank. Also, about every 10 days the mulm should be siphoned from the bottom of the tank. If you don't it will soon be crash time again.

You can size the Daphnia by pouring through different size fish nets, thus separating the smaller food for your smaller fishes. One advantage of Daphnia is that they will remain alive until eaten instead of polluting your tank.

Belonging to an active fish club is almost a requirement for year round feeding of Daphnia. Why? Because when you get lazy/stupid and crash your Daphnia culture you can ask a member to bring you a new start to the next meeting. Thank you Tom, Greg, Charley and others! Keeping two tanks going is another good idea.

Raising And Growing Large Brine Shrimp

2009-08-09T12:03:00.000-07:00

I had a problem keeping my fish supplied with a regular supply of live foods, and with Brine Shrimp being high on their list of favorites I decided to produce them in quantity and size, and here is how I did it.

Topic is BIG brine shrimp, and you will need the following. One or two spare all-glass tanks, a sheet of rigid plastic (see below), a small stainless steel self tapping screw, a bag of genuine sea salt, and some brine shrimp eggs. Further to this, you will need to read and follow the instructions given if you want to succeed.

As promised, here is a great way to grow brine shrimp for all year round use. First a little warning. Live food to tropicals is a "Treat" not an "Everyday" food and should be used in moderation, and not as a substitute for a normal diet. Most live foods are a laxative to fish, so feed sparingly. Also, prolonged feeding of brine shrimp can increase water salinity, so again, take care.

If you want to get really serious about this, then discard your regular hatcher for the time being and set yourself up a REAL HATCHERY:

You will need an all glass tank, and preferably two if you want to produce large healthy shrimps. You will also need a dedicated air supply that won't be turned off, as this is critical. Tank size is really not important to start with, but if you have a spare 18x12x12 inches, this will do. The second tank should be larger if possible, as this will be your "Growing on Tank."

Take your small tank and begin by blacking out about two thirds completely, that is the front, back, and sides; plus make a top of glass or plastic and black the outer side of this also, never the inside. Blackboard paint applied to the outside is ideal, but it should be allowed to dry completely before taking it into your fish room. As an alternative you could stick cardboard or something around the sides.

You are going to need to partition the tank off into two areas, with no gaps if possible. Measure the inside dimension from front to back, and the depth. Cut a square of rigid plastic sheet, or similar material that can be cut and trimmed easily. Your local hardware store might have an offcut of sheeting somewhere. You are trying to create a completely dark side of the tank, and a small (one third) area of non-darkened area, so your efforts in this department will pay dividends. The separator sheet should be a good push fit, and you may have to trim the lower corners to stop it tearing into the silicone seals on your tank, so check this. Try it for size, but don't fit it yet, as you have work to do. Take the square plastic sheet separator and measure around three to four inches from the top, and then find the approx. center. Now cut a hole around one and a half inches in diameter in this position on the sheet. (It's hard talking in imperial - we're metric). The above is not critical, but the position given works. This hole will be the exit hole for the live shrimp.

Now cut a disc of the sheet plastic to cover the hole - square or round, it doesn't matter. While you were at the hardware shop you should have got a small stainless steel self tapping screw. Sorry, off you go. ....Geez, that was quick. Now, bore a small hole into the small piece you just cut, and another in the separator sheet. The idea is that the small piece acts as a peephole, and when swung into position it should cover the hole and prevent light from getting to the dark side. Take your time, this is important.

Now gently position your separator sheet in the tank and check the fit. If all is well, proceed with the next step. Hopefully you have some sea salt, and some brine shrimp eggs. A word about the eggs. Hatching rates vary so much that if you get a bad result, it will be the eggs. Some are from Utah Salt Lake Flats, others from San Francisco (over here that is), so try different brands and when you find a good one stick to it.

Right, next step. The correct salinity of the water will be on the bag of salts you bought, and should be as for marine fish, or slightly saltier. Calculate the gallons, or litres that your tank holds and follow the directions on your salt bag. Use genuine sea salt not household stuff. Put the correct amount of salts in your tank with the partition removed, then gradually fill with clean unchlorinated water. Rain water is good if it's clean, although it could be a little soft in some regions. If you can get offshore a couple of miles out, take a few containers and grab yourself some seawater. It has enough food in it to support your shrimps in the early stages. Land lubbers fear not, just read on. Once the tank is full, mix the contents thoroughly making sure all the salt has dissolved. You clued up folks can measure the specific gravity if you like with a hydrometer, but going by the instructions on the bag always works.

Slip the partition into position making sure all light is excluded from the dark side of the tank. I have always found I didn't need heat to hatch these little fellas out, but if you live in a cold region introduce a small heater and keep it around 65-70 deg.F. Just to be clear to everyone, the tank needs to be absolutely bare - no gravel or UG filters, or outside filters of any sort, clean and bare. Now the shrimps. Take each shrimp singly between the finger and thumb and…. Just kidding. Its surprising how many shrimp a small bottle holds, so don't tip half a bottle in and hope to get a good result. You will be introducing more eggs gradually, over time, so at first only put around a quarter of a level teaspoon full into the dark side of the tank. Get a good free flowing airstone with heaps of grunt and place in the dark side of the tank. The idea here is not to let the eggs settle on the bottom for even a second, and the air must remain on constantly if you want results. The dark side should now be a swirling mass of eggs. You'll find that they get washed up onto the tank sides, so occasionally wipe them off and back into the water. Cover the tank so that it is completely dark. 36 to 48 hours later you should have a mass of live shrimp.

Never take shrimp from the dark side. Don't be too anxious, give them a day or so to grow on a little.

Harvesting:
The big decision now is "Do you feed to the fish, or grow on?" Tell you what, why not do both? That spare second tank you have, now is the time to fill it, no partitions, just a straight tank filled with the same type of salt water you filled the first with. Set it up and get the temp. right, and the airstone going. If you have space near a sunny window, so much the better.

On the hatching tank, turn the air supply off for a while. Have a cuppa till the eggs settle. Again, don't rush this or you'll finish up with mostly egg shells. Take a peek, and if the eggs have settled open the peephole on the separator, while still keeping the dark end of the tank covered. Stand a light of some form at the clear end of the tank and watch. Gradually the LIVE shrimps will swim through the peephole into the lighted area, leaving all the SHELLS behind. The shrimp can be siphoned off with a length of air hose and into a net with a fine cloth laid in it to stop the shrimps going through the net, and those to be fed can be fed direct. They should be a mass of pink in the cloth. If your second tank is some distance away use a jam jar filled with water from the tank to transfer some shrimp for growing on.

Brine Shrimp, as with any other living thing that comes from an egg, can survive a certain amount of time on the egg sac, and for the shrimp this time is short, so if you want to grow your shrimp on, then you must feed them. Those of you that have the luxury of natural seawater will have less worries, but others will need to do the following. Another "Never" is, never feed the shrimps in the hatching tank. You can pollute the water in two seconds if you don't take care, so only feed them in the growing-on tank (if you do decide to grow them on), or from the retrieval side of your new hatchery where they are free of shells and this is how you do it:

First few days, one or two small drops of #1 Liquifry, or similar fry food. Don't overfeed, you'll pollute the water so quick you'll miss it. Watch the shrimp, watch their size. They grow amazingly quick. At around a half a millimetre long they can start on the prepared food I will tell you about. In some regions they call them "Sea Monkeys"

The Growing On Food:
You will need one hard boiled egg, and one tablespoon of Bemax, or similar non-flavoured health food. Use only the yolk of the egg, and along with the "Bemax" mix into a smooth paste. A few squirts of Liquifry into the paste would not go amiss at this time along with a pinch or two of flaky fish food. Please note: There are other foods in various articles on Brine Shrimp, but this worked for me with excellent results. Form into a small thin biscuit shape and place on a baking tray and pop in the oven under a low heat. You are trying to create a small biscuit of food. Don't burn it, just dry it out completely. Once dry and crisp, remove from the oven and cool. Now take a rolling pin and crush the thing to the finest dust you can, the finer the better. Store the result in an airtight jar. Possibly by now you can see the legs on the shrimps if you look close, or if you are like me with aging eyesight, use a hand lens. Cute little buggers.

Feeding:
I don't want to preach, but don't overfeed or your efforts will be wasted.

Get a match and dip the end into the tank, then into the pounded mixture you prepared. An eighth of an inch of mixture JUST clinging to the match is more than enough. Dip it into the tank and swish around. It should appear milky, with no lumps or large bits. Any large bits will remain uneaten and pollute the tank. A small amount like this in the morning, and again at night is sufficient, and this formula has grown shrimps to ¾" plus, and were seen to be carrying eggs themselves, so it can be done. You may have to feed slightly more depending on the size and stock of your shrimps. Try to feed before it gets too dark. I'm not sure if the shrimp can see in the dark, I suppose they can, but to be on the safe side. Many people feed their fish, then turn off the light and go to bed, and they wonder why they get problems. Having your tank near the window will grow algae, and this will also be a food for your shrimps.

Mollies love them, and also like a bit of salt in their water, sea horses thrive on them, as do all tropical marines. As with everything in nature, what we take, we have to give back, so each time you remove eggs from your hatchery tank, pop a few more in to keep the cycle going. Again, don't overdo it. You may have the facilities to move the shrimp to a third tank and grow them even bigger, and the secret here is the food, and natural seawater will assist in your results, as the microscopic life can feed the shrimp. Trials at a university in England showed that pollution of the water can happen rapidly, and to ensure your supply lasts and grows, feed half as much as you think they need, and move the adults on as they grow. Use a wooden box with a poly liner if you have to, but if you follow the steps you should be successful.

ADDENDUM:

Since writing this article on the raising of big Brine Shrimp, we have had dozens of emails asking for further information on various matters that some readers have found confusing. I have answered all these queries, but for the benefit of other readers, below are listed many of the questions, and should anyone need more clarification, I would be pleased to answer via my email. The main questions have been on lighting, heat, food, growing on, plus a few others, so I will try to cover these below.

Q. Why do you say the eggs have to be kept in the darkened area, when the suppliers say "Keep under light for 24 hours..?"
A. I designed the hatcher during the mid '70's, and after trying various methods over several months, I found that keeping the eggs (cysts) in the darkened area until hatched gave a better result, with more consistency, than hatching under light. I have just received a one pound tin of eggs from a supplier in the States, and this also says to hatch under light for 24hrs, but as the old saying goes.. "What works for me," and I personally found that using the segregated tank with the darkened area method did just that.

Q. When should I open the flap to allow the hatched ones to swim through, and won't just the normal light attract them..?
A. Opening the flap on the separator and shining a strong light to attract the shrimp into the open side should be done as soon as the shrimp are hatched. Because of the amount of shrimp in the enclosed area, they can soon become overcrowded, so the quicker they are attracted into the naturally lighted open area the better. Using normal house lights, or natural light will no get them to congregate in one area for siphoning off, hence the strong light. If conditions are right, you should have a huge pink mass in one area. I found it best to use a sieve at this point so that the old water was not added to the new setup. If you transfer them quickly, they should come to no harm.

Q. Do I really need to use a heater..?
A. This depends on your room temperature, but hatching at around 25 to 28C will give you a faster hatching rate than at 20C or less. At 20 or below they could take several days to hatch, whereas at 25C to 28C they should hatch in around 18hrs, but some may take longer.

Q. Is there any way I can filter the water without losing the shrimps…?
A. Not that I know of, but if you discover one I would be pleased to see it. I have often wondered if a bivalve would do it, or would it create more waste..?

Q. Should the water smell..?
A. After a while, and a few hatchings, the water 'will' begin to smell and I think this is due to the cyst shells that accumulate after a few hatchings, or perhaps from the demise of some of the shrimps through overcrowding. Sea Salt from the supermarket is cheap, and is what gives good results, but I have used natural sea water when I could get it. Any odors from the tank should be an indication that the water needs changing.

Q. How much salt do I use..?
A. As per the salinity of sea water, or slightly more, this is a specific gravity of 1.022, which is 1.022 times heavier than pure water at 4C.

Q. This 'Bemax' stuff you mention, what is it and where can I get it..?
A. Bemax is a health food as was sold in the UK, and may not be available everywhere, but a normal health food (unflavoured) will work just as well, or even some baby food if dried as per the article. Experiment with different things as I did, then tell us your results. Growing green algae on the tank is a great food for them, so if you can do this, so much the better.

Q. When should I start feeding them..? Is the recipe you mention really needed to grow them on..?
A. Two parts here. First… NEVER feed them in the hatching tank, as this will pollute the water very quickly. Natural sea water (if you have a handy supply) contains enough food for the early stages, but not enough to sustain them indefinitely until mature. Attract the shrimp into the lighted area with a strong light, then allow to settle around the light, then siphon off and place in the growing on tank. Second. Now is the time to feed them small amounts of the mixture you have 'hopefully' prepared. Once again, the mixture in the article is "what works for me", but you can get results using a liquid fry food, but I found the best results were gained from using the mixture as in the article. There is I understand a prepared food available for feeding brine shrimp, but to date I have not come across it. As they grow, increase the amount of feed, and the number of feedings.

Q. How long can they stay in the growing on tank..?
A. As long as you can sustain the right conditions for them. Ideally you should have a couple of growing on tanks if you 'really' want to grow the big guys, and to do this you grow them on in the first tank, then as the water shows signs of becoming fouled or old, you move them on to the next prepared tank, which allows you to clean out the first and get it ready for the next shift. They grow fast, and take up a lot of room, plus they consume heaps of air, so it should be kept flowing at all times. You may find that due to their growth that you will need to either feed them out to your fish, or set up an additional unit to cope with them, as at around half an inch they will be seen to be carrying eggs. Once these hatch you will have to 'grade' them and either grow the young on, or feed them out. You could also freeze your surplus for feeding at a later date. I don't actually know the lifespan of these brine shrimp, but I was never short of a continuous supply in all the time I used this method.

** Just a note here **
These growing on tanks are just 'bare' tanks.. nothing else, just plain old all glass tanks, or some other suitable container, plus of course the aeration. Two foot by one foot is an ideal size, but you may feel adventurous and set up a three or four foot.

CoralVue High Seas High Output Propeller Driven Power Heads

2009-08-09T12:00:00.000-07:00

Introducing our new line of powerful powerheads for serious reef keepers! These powerheads are a high efficiency high output propeller driven pumps that produce massive water currents in reef aquariums. Comes in a single and dual driven power head model. All models come with a magnetic mount to attach the wave maker anywhere in the aquarium. There is also a swivel base that allows the wave maker to be positioned at any angle the consumer chooses.

Vertex Reverse Osmosis RO/DI Water Filters

2009-08-09T11:58:00.000-07:00

Vertex Puratek 100 GPD & 200 GPD RO/DI SYSTEMS.

Complete with Automated backflush booster pump& TDS meter.

One of the best values in water filtration!

Brightwell Aquatics NeoMarine Reef & Marine Salt Mix

2009-08-09T11:56:00.000-07:00

Product Information
As you have read on the outside of this container of NēoMarine, we make the claim that it is so close in composition to natural seawater that marine organisms cannot tell the difference. How can we make this claim if the product does not provide every element present in natural seawater?
The answers are not as complicated as one might think, and may be addressed in three separate but very important aspects: 1.) the nature of the elements present; 2.) their concentrations with respect to average natural seawater parameters; 3.) the quality of ingredients utilized and the means in which the salt is produced. These points are addressed individually below.
First, all major elements are present in NēoMarine, however only minor and trace elements known to undergo biological and/or chemical interactions (e.g. depletion) in natural seawater are included. What this means is that there is a specific change (decrease) in the concentration profile of the element measured in the surface waters where life is concentrated; such elements are believed to interact with marine life and/or with other substances present in the water, and these elements are considered to exhibit “non-conservative” behavior. Elements that do not exhibit these characteristics do not apparently interact with marine life or these other substances (at least as far as current analytical methods can discern); they are not likely necessary for the continued health or existence of marine organisms. It follows that these elements are not required for success with a marine aquarium; in fact, if added they would gradually accumulate with time. Because of this, they may be omitted from the salt mix and the savings in raw materials and production procedures passed on to the aquarist.
Second, the comparison table on the outside of this package indicates that, when mixed to a specific gravity of 1.024 g/cm3, the concentrations of elements present are extraordinarily close to those observed in natural seawater; in fact, with only one exception (chloride), all major, minor, and trace elements present are in the proportions to one another that they are in natural seawater. The natural seawater concentrations of elements listed are taken from current data compiled by oceanographers, and the formula is adjusted as analytical methods are improved and new data becomes available. These changes are so minute that they will not noticeably alter the performance of the salt or the appearance of aquarium inhabitants; we simply want the concentrations of elements present to remain as close to those found in natural seawater as possible.
Third, as with all Brightwell Aquatics water care products, we use the very highest purity ingredients available, period. This means that the majority of individual ingredients in NēoMarine are of USP or ACS grade, the highest levels of purity in existence. We do not cut any corners when it comes to what goes into our products. Additionally, we manufacture our salt mix on-site under very strict environmental conditions, ensuring the maximum degree of quality and accuracy to our formulation, and every container of NēoMarine is lot numbered for quality control.
This formula has undergone extensive testing and has produced very impressive results. Livestock from every common family of ornamental marine organisms has been maintained in water prepared with this formula without incident, many of them reproducing freely when they had not done so in aquaria maintained with other salt brands.
If you have purchased this package, used a portion of it, and find that the salt falls short of your expectations, please do not hesitate to contact us. We want you to use this salt and be 100% satisfied with it. We are confident that NēoMarine Salt Mix is the best such product on the market because we have formulated it to contain everything needed by marine life in precise natural seawater concentrations, and because we have paid such close attention to all pertinent details of purity and manufacturing. We thank you for choosing Brightwell Aquatics as your supplier of marine aquarium salt, and wish you the best of success with your aquaria.

A Brief Discussion of Specific Gravity (Density) and Salinity
Specific gravity is a measurement of density, and the relationship that it has with salinity is dependant upon water temperature. Oceanographers generally agree that the average salinity of the world’s oceans is ~35.0‰, however the salinity of water in some areas may be considerably higher. This is largely a result of the balance between evaporation and influx of freshwater in specific areas and/or bodies of water; the higher the rate of evaporation and/or the lower the relative volume of freshwater influx, the higher the average salinity tends to be. The Red Sea is a prime example of this: essentially surrounded by desert and with very little exchange of water between itself and neighboring water bodies, the average salinity tends to be quite high relative to that of other tropical marine environments; areas of the Red Sea may exceed 40‰ at times. For the most part, however, salinity in tropical areas tends to fall between 35 – 37‰, and this is a sensible range to maintain within marine aquaria.

Instructions and Guidelines
Each 138.8 grams of NēoMarine will increase the specific gravity of 1 US-gallon of purified water to approximately 1.024 g/cm3. To obtain a higher or lower specific gravity when preparing water, divide the desired value by 1.024 and then multiply this number by the volume of water (in gallons) being prepared, then multiply this value by 138.8 to obtain the mass of salt required (in grams) to be added (example: if target SG is 1.021 in 5.0 gallons of water: 1.021 ÷ 1.024 = 0.998; 0.998 × 5.0 = 4.985; 4.985 × 138.8 g = 691.92 g, as opposed to 694.0 g required to increase SG in 5.0 gallons to 1.024 g/cm3). If not using an accurate scale to measure salt, dissolve approximately 4 oz., or half a cup, of salt mix in each gallon of purified water to obtain a target specific gravity between 1.021 – 1.024 g/cm3, and adjust as needed by adding more salt or water to increase/decrease specific gravity, respectively. It is strongly recommended that water purified via reverse osmosis and/or deionization be used for seawater preparation. Add the required amount of water and salt to a clean container such as a large plastic pail and mix it thoroughly with a submersible pump. Always use an accurate hydrometer or (preferably) refractometer to determine the specific gravity of prepared seawater. Ensure that the water temperature matches that of the established aquarium (use a submersible heater if necessary). Although the prepared water may be used immediately upon reaching the desired specific gravity and pH (and temperature), it is recommended that at least one hour (and preferably several hours) of mixing be allowed to pass before adding the water to an established aquarium; this extra time enables gas formed during the salt dissolution to escape, further stabilizing pH.
Water changes in all marine aquaria should be made weekly to help maintain the natural seawater ionic ratios. The addition of supplements (which add elements that are affected by both biological and chemical interactions (non-conservative elements), as well as others that are not affected by these processes (conservative elements) and therefore accumulate with time unless removed with water changes), the depletion of various non-conservative elements, loss of salt to the external environment through water spraying, interaction of various elements with organic matter in the aquarium, and removal of elements via chemical filtration all alter the ionic ratio of the water. Weekly water changes of at least 5% of the total volume of water in the system will help counter these processes and provide a more stable environment for ornamental marine organisms. Note that if an aquarium is established with an inexpensive synthetic salt blend lacking adequate concentrations of non-conservative elements, additional money must be spent on supplements to correct the deficiencies before any animals are introduced to the system; these supplements may contain conservative elements that further alter the ionic ratio of the water. In light of these facts, it can be said that purchasing an inexpensive salt blend saves no money in the long run and does not encourage the health of livestock.
Switching from your present salt mix to NēoMarine: Stability of water chemistry is one of the most important aspects of successfully maintaining a marine aquarium. Therefore, sudden changes in water chemistry, such as when making high-volume water changes with water that has different chemical characteristics (no matter how slight the differences are), can have significant negative impacts on the livestock; even if they appear to be healthy initially, they may very well be found in poor appearance or even deceased a few hours later. This is often the case when manufacturers alter their salt formulation (either by accident or design) without informing their customers; what would seem to be a routine water change with a salt that has been used for months or even years can result in disaster.
It is imperative when changing from your current brand or formula of salt to a new one that the transition be gradual. We strongly recommend that the maximum water changed when switching to a new salt mix not exceed 5% of the total system volume (taking the water in sumps and displacement of water due to rock and bottom substrate into account) per 7-day period. This maintains relative stability in the water chemistry and has a much lower impact on aquarium inhabitants than does changing larger volumes. While it may take 5 – 6 months to completely switch over to a new formula (when doing a weekly 5% water change; water changes with less frequency will increase the time to complete transition accordingly), this should not be viewed as a nuisance, but rather as insurance that the livestock will make the transition smoothly and without illness or death. Considering the degree of care that goes into maintaining most marine aquaria, this method of careful transition is well worth the effort.
If you have recently changed from another brand of marine aquarium salt to this one, we would love to see “before and after” photos of the system after it has been established. Contact us for details on photo submission, and a chance to have your photos featured on our website.

What’s in NeoMarine:
Anhydrous-only forms of major elements
Average Mg, Ca, K, and Sr concentrations of 1,290-, 413-, 399-, and 8 ppm, respectively
All non-conservative minor and trace elements found in seawater
Sufficient salt to reconstitute purified water of the stated package volume to 1.025 g/cm3
Our commitment that this salt blend is the best you have ever used

What’s not in NeoMarine:
Anti-caking agents
Vitamins, amino acids, and other unnecessary organic substances
Hydrated forms of major elements such as magnesium and calcium
Saltwater evaporite (e.g. dehydrated saltwater)
Ammonia*
Phosphate*

*Ammonia and phosphate are undetectable in water prepared to 1.025 g/cm3 using Hach standard test kits with reagents within the usable dates. Every batch is tested and results are logged.

How was NeoMarine formulated?
Basically, we reverse-engineered saltwater by creating an extremely-precise calculation method that takes into account all necessary chemical characteristics of the salts that provide desirable elements. Natural seawater concentrations of all major elements, as well as the minor and trace elements that are considered to be non-conservative (e.g. they are utilized in biological and chemical processes that occur in marine environments), were used as the design template. We then tested several combinations of ingredients that ultimately provided identical concentrations of each important element (except chloride, which was the only ion that varied in concentration); we were specifically interested in assessing the dryness and homogeneity of the blend, as well as the solubility and speed with which the blend completely dissolved into solution. For what it’s worth, the final formulation provides all major, minor, and trace elements at concentrations within 0.000001% (with the exception of chloride) of their respective average natural seawater concentrations. We strive to reproduce this formulation with our production process.

How was NeoMarine tested?
Once we had arrived at a final formulation, we tested it in multiple research systems for a period of three years. Our research systems house all conceivable types of marine fishes, cnidarians, bivalves, gastropods, echinoderms, crustaceans, coelenterates, and poriferans, as well as ancillary organisms such as suspension-feeding worms, macroalgae, sea grasses, and mangroves. We have exclusively been using our salt formulation on every system during the three-year testing process, with remarkable success: several coral spawning events have taken place, fishes have reproduced, and the coloration and apparent health of all residents in the systems is very good. Additionally, NeoMarine has been successfully used in a large reef aquarium on display at a prominent national museum in the Nation’s Capitol.

How is NeoMarine manufactured?
We’ll give you a hint: no cement mixers are used! The exact process is deemed proprietary, but what we can divulge is that the process is such that a homogenous particle size and blend are created in a clean, climate-controlled atmosphere within our own production facility. Rather than producing several tons of NeoMarine in each batch, we create batches of modest-size that enable us to maintain maximum quality control and ensure the most homogenous blend; the more ingredients that are used, the more difficult it is to create homogeneity throughout the finished product (our formulation makes use of nearly 40 ingredients, for reference), so producing gigantic batches of salt is not an option for us. If we were just blending table salt with “ice-melt” and Dow flake and calling that a finished product, we could make multi-ton batches and not lose any sleep doing so.

How long does it take for NeoMarine to dissolve?
On average, 75deg.F water that has the proper amount of NeoMarine added to increase the specific gravity to 1.025 g/cm3 will clear in less than 15-minutes with vigorous mixing, however when mixing a large batch (e.g. ≥50-gallons) all at once it may take longer for the mix to completely clear. Two things factor into the speed that a salt mix will clear in water of a standardized temperature: the degree of mixing taking place within the mixing vessel, and the solubility of the various salts that are present in a mix. Regarding the former, it can be said that the speed of dissolution is directly related to the amount of water movement in the vessel; that is, faster water movement decreases the time required for the mix to completely dissolve and clarify, assuming that samples are prepared using the same salt blend. Companies selling sea salt blends have been hyping the speed with which their salt dissolves completely for so long that aquarists now use this as a bench-mark to judge the quality of a salt mix; ironically, salts that mix immediately into water are typified by low concentrations of magnesium, calcium, and/or the use of a large percentage of highly-soluble hydrated ingredients that drag unwanted substances into their final product (see the following section). Honestly, salt water should mix overnight in order to allow all intermediate gasses formed during the dissolution process to escape and pH and alkalinity to become stable. If the newly-mixed saltwater doesn’t become crystal-clear within 30-seconds, who cares?

Why is NeoMarine more expensive than other brands?
As with all items baring the Brightwell Aquatics name, we do not cut corners in any aspect of the salt formulation or preparatory process. The primary reason that the salt is higher-priced is that the ingredients are of such high purity that they command a higher price from our vendors; for instance, because we use superior grades of anhydrous magnesium salts rather than low-grade hydrated forms (which contribute ammonia and insoluble particulate material into a finished product), our cost increases by an order of magnitude. However, we wouldn’t use hydrated magnesium (or calcium) salts for the afore-mentioned reason, not to mention the additional weight that these salts add to a finished product (which factors into the final price that is paid at a retail-level as a result of the resultantly higher freight charges). Simply stated, NeoMarine is more expensive because it truly is made of better ingredients, and more of them. Furthermore, rather than prepare water to only 1.018 - 1.021 g/cm3, each container of NeoMarine prepares water to 1.025 g/cm3. In this aspect alone it costs us more to manufacture than it does our competitors whose salt blends fall short of this specific gravity. We run a chemical analysis for pH, alkalinity, calcium, ammonia, and phosphate on each batch of NeoMarine produced; this costs us money. Lastly, we manufacture NeoMarine and all other Brightwell Aquatics supplements and filtration media in-house using precision equipment that can be used for the production of foods and pharmaceuticals, we pay our personnel a good wage, and we are privately-owned so our operating expenses are expectedly-higher than those of many of our competitors.

In summary, we would like to make it known that we did not set out to create a salt blend that was superior to other salts in one aspect or another; that was never a consideration. Our intention was to make a salt blend that recreated all important aspects of natural seawater with such precision that captive marine organisms couldn’t noticeably tell the difference between water prepared with our salt and “the real thing”. To us, this approach merely makes the most sense, and we believe that your aquarium inhabitants will agree. Thank you for your interest in Brightwell Aquatics; we sincerely appreciate it. Oh – and remember: it’s more than an aquarium. It’s an obsession.

COMING SOON - Super Reef Octopus XP 2000 Cone Protein Skimmer by CoralVue

2009-08-09T11:52:00.000-07:00

Super Reef Octopus XP 2000 Protein Skimmer is a Brand New design in our ever popular Reef Octopus line of protein skimmers. Powered by Bubble Blaster pump!

An integrated bubble plate to help reduce turbulence within the skimmer which helps build a dense head of foam.
Ultimate cone shape body, extra-wide plumbing and necks allow for more air flow and more stable reactor chamber. Wedge pipe output which allows you to adjust the skimmer and have greater control of adjustments compared to using ball valves.
Quick release neck on the collection cup - requires 1/2 inch of clearance to remove the cup.
All models below are in sump skimmers only, external models will be available later this year.

Model Super Reef Octopus XP 2000 Specifications:

* Recommended for tanks up to 200 gallons with average bio load.
* Height: 23"
* Power Consumption: 30 watts
* Air Input: 50SCFH
* Base Diameter: 8"
* Neck Diameter: 4"
* Footprint:

* 3 year pump warranty!

***All Skimmers perform best in 8” to 10” of water.

Red Dragon Deluxe Water Pumps

2009-08-09T11:51:00.001-07:00

Red Dragon pumps are the most efficient centrifugal pumps for internal and external use available in the Aquatic hobby today! Using the highest quality components and patented technology they produce very high flow, and consume less energy than most competing products. The optimized pump head geometry combined with patented drive technology and start-up electronics enables the pump to produce a high flow with very low energy consumption. This will also ensure silent operation and no start- up issues, and with less heat generation. All RED DRAGON pumps are designed to use in ultra- silent ‘lifestyle applications’ where no noise is tolerated. Utilizing our patented Anti Calcium bypass technology, water is pushed from pump-head to the back of magnet to cool down the shaft, bearings and magnet. In return less calcification occurs, which increases the life of the pump and reduces the need for frequent maintenance. This feature is especially useful in SPS or other systems in demand of high Calcium or using Kalk dosing. Unlike other centrifugal pumps using Ceramic bearings, only the best quality Silicon Carbide bearings are used which will last much longer than other materials, and smoother contact between shaft and bearing will produce less noise. Models RD10 and RD12 also feature Titanium motor shafts, and ALL metal components used are high grade Titanium and absolutely saltwater resistant.

EXCLUSIVE FEATURES

* Low Energy Consumption
* High flow, up to 3170GPH!
* Cool to the touch
* Submersible or external use
* Extremely silent
* No start- up issues!
* CNC pump head produced from a solid PVC Block
* Highest Quality German magnets
* Silicum Carbide bearings
* Anti Calcium Bypass
* Ozone safe
* Titanium Screws
* Easily disassembled for cleaning and maintenance
* CNC inlet and outlet with built in O-ring for direct connection of unions
* All parts can be disassembled for ease of maintenance

The Brightwell Aquatics NeoZeo Method

2009-08-09T11:49:00.000-07:00

Synopsis:
Maintaining ultra-low (e.g. immeasurable) nutrient concentrations in reef aquaria and
precisely-controlling the inorganic and organic substances entering the system can
result in vibrant coloration of zooxanthellate corals and their allies. The method
described below can accomplish this task. It should be stated from the onset that this
method will only produce dramatic results if it is employed continuously, and as
directed (with slight adjustments made to dosing as dictated by the appearance of the
aquarium inhabitants). It is an interesting, highly-effective method of maintaining reef
aquaria that is without question geared to the more “hands-on”, experienced reef
aquarium enthusiast.

Stated simply, this method removes undesirable nutrients and provides beneficial
nutrients. To be slightly more descriptive, it:

• Extracts phosphate, ammonia, and dissolved organic material from aquarium
water by direct adsorption.
• Limits production of nitrate and minimizes the presence of latent organic
material in the system.
• Provides specific organic and inorganic substances for the express purpose of
enhancing health, growth, and vibrant coloration of corals and their allies.

Note:
It should be stated that we are not claiming to have pioneered the method described
herein by titling this document “The Brightwell Aquatics NeoZeo Method”; we are
simply outlining the method utilizing Brightwell Aquatics supplements and filtration
media for the reference of interested reef enthusiasts. Additionally, no amount of
tinkering with methods of filtration or nutrient supplementation will provide the
desired results if the remaining water parameters and physical conditions are not
within the proper ranges; it is presumed that temperature, pH, alkalinity, and the
concentrations of magnesium, calcium, potassium, strontium, and important minor
and trace elements in an aquarium are properly maintained, and that lighting and
water flow are adjusted to address the needs of the aquarium inhabitants, in any
system in which the NeoZeo (or similar) method is employed. For many aquarists, this
is a somewhat complex system when first reviewed; we can just hear people saying
“Ye gads!” (or the like) once they have finished reading this document. Be assured that
the information provided below is meant to be a comprehensive introduction to the
method, but that there are bound to be exceptions or conditions presenting
themselves within specific aquaria that necessitate some degree of divergence from
general dosing recommendations made; therefore, it is up to each aquarist to know
their system well, for this method relies heavily on attention to detail (specifically the
impact that individual components utilized have on the appearance of aquarium
inhabitants, and this only comes with time and experience).

Throughout this document, the word “nutrient” will appear many times. It is used in
the broadest possible context, adhering to the definition of a nutrient being a
substance that provides sustenance.

Discussion:
Maintaining a healthy reef aquarium (or any aquarium, for that matter) is largely
dependant upon limiting the concentrations of nutrients such as nitrate and
phosphate; in doing so, the general health of the inhabitants tends to be relatively
high (presumably because more attention is being paid to water quality) and the
appearance of the system remains more pristine. So-called “nuisance organisms” such
as filamentous algae and cyanobacteria are rarely visible in systems with
immeasurable phosphate, and stony corals maintained in such systems are generally
more vibrantly-colored as opposed to being predominantly brown or a shade thereof
(an appearance that is the result of the high population density of zooxanthellae in the
coral tissue, caused in large part by an elevated phosphate concentration in the
system). Photosynthetic organisms require a usable source of phosphorus and
nitrogen if they are to survive and flourish, so some small amount of these elements
must be present for these organisms, and their symbionts, to survive; the key is to
provide the nutrients directly to the organisms in an appropriate form and limit their
“free” concentration in the reef aquarium. There’s nothing revolutionary about this concept; rather, the method in which it is accomplished (as described in this
document) is somewhat new.

The NeoZeo method can be dissected into two main areas of focus: Nutrient
Limitation and Nutrient Supplementation. While we will examine them individually, it
is extremely important to state that this system relies on a balanced combination of
the two aspects in order to provide positive results. It is extremely simple to strip the
important substances out of an aquarium to the point that the aquarium inhabitants
begin to suffer and perish; it is even simpler to overload an aquarium with organic
and/or inorganic substances, resulting in the same fate of the inhabitants (albeit by
different means).

Nutrient Limitation

As previously mentioned, controlling the concentrations of nutrients, and their
precursors, in reef aquaria is extremely important; the long-term overall health of the
system is highly reliant upon it. This entails extracting dissolved and particulate
organic material, as well as phosphate and nitrogenous molecules such as ammonia,
nitrite, and nitrate from the system efficiently and effectively. In the past, aquarists
have utilized protein skimming, activated carbon, and ion-exchange resins in
conjunction with the natural biological and chemical reactions taking place within
sediment and porous substrates to accomplish this goal. The aspect of this method
that makes it “unique” is the utilization of a family of selective zeolites for the dual
purpose of extracting ammonia/ammonium and providing a substrate for the
colonization of beneficial microbes. It follows that an aquarium with efficient
extraction of ammonia before it is utilized in the nitrification process will have a very
limited propensity for nitrate accumulation. Similarly, by extracting dissolved and
particulate organic material from the water before it has a chance to be broken down
via microbial processes and/or photodegradation, the constituents of that material are
not released into the system; this is accomplished through protein skimming and the
use of high-quality activated carbon. The rates of nitrogen and phosphorus input and
the presence of adequate organic carbon largely determine whether or not some
amount of measurable nitrate and/or phosphate persist in an aquarium; nitrate is
removed via denitrification and/or the use of a sulfur reactor, and phosphate is
addressed by utilizing some form of phosphate-adsorption media. The ultimate goal
is to maintain microbial biomass production at such a rate that the concentrations of
nitrate and phosphate never become measurable.

Biological Nutrient Limitation (Microbes and Organic Carbon)

The role that microbes play in a zeolite filtration method is extremely important: they
convert nutrients existing in excessive concentrations into biomass, which is then (in
the case of planktonic bacteria, or “bacterioplankton”) consumed by corals and other
suspension-feeding organisms and utilized in biological processes, and/or removed
from the aquarium by protein skimming. The process may be thought of as nutrient
recycling and export, and in that regard it provides some of the same benefits that a
refugium housing macroalgae provides; the main difference is that the nutrients
assimilated into microbial biomass are at least partially available to corals, which is not
the case when it comes to nutrients assimilated into macroalgae tissue. A percentage
of the microbes form biofilms on inanimate objects (often appearing as a brownish
film on the panes of the aquarium), which can be brushed off and captured by
aquarium inhabitants and skimmer intakes, again exporting nutrients from the system;
we will return to the topic of biofilm shortly. Before we move on, it is likely that some
readers will ask the questions, “Why is this means of nutrient export any different than
the natural processes taking place within any cycled aquarium? Microbes are going to
colonize the NeoZeo media regardless of seeding it. What’s the big deal?” The
primary difference between a “traditional” system in which biological filtration media
is set into place and allowed to become passively populated with microbes and a
system in which a select group of microbes is supplemented on an ongoing basis is
that (again) the enthusiast maintains more control over the rate of nutrient export,
and simultaneously encourages the biological processing of various substances
known to negatively impact water clarity and/or the health of the aquarium
inhabitants.

It is here that the discussion turns to carbon limitation and the implications
this has with regards to the ability of microbes to assimilate phosphorus and nitrogen.
Covering this topic requires elementary thinking and relies on the ratios of nutrient
uptake in bacteria being somewhat analogous to that of marine phytoplankton.

Using the molar ratios of 106:16:1 C:N:P (carbon : nitrogen : phosphorus) in marine
phytoplankton as a model for nutrient uptake in bacteria, it follows that bacteria
require considerable carbon to assimilate nitrogen and (particularly) phosphorus. In a
system with low- to immeasurable-concentrations of nitrate and phosphate, there is
presumably sufficient organic C present to enable bacteria to utilize the N and P that is
available; resultantly, bacterial biomass is regulated by the relative abundance of N
and P. Conversely, in a system with relatively high concentrations of nitrate or
phosphate (e.g. one that tends to be heavily-fed), their uptake by bacteria will be
inhibited by inadequate organic C. The solution is to supplement the system with
organic C, which enables assimilation of the existing N and P into bacterial biomass.
As previously described, the bacteria, and hence the N and P, are then removed from
the system via filtration and/or converted into biomass of suspension-feeding
organisms capturing bacterioplankton and pieces of biofilm that become dislodged
from static surfaces.

Hagen Fluval Plus 4 Internal Filter

2009-08-09T11:46:00.000-07:00

Hagen Fluval Plus Internal Filter has all the features essential for a first class internal filter. Versatile media, Flow control, Direction Adjustment, Optimum flow, Clogging Indicator. (Note Fluval 1 is a simplified design and does not have the additional features of Fluval 2, 3 and 4 plus).

Hagen Fluval EDGE 6 gal. Aquarium Sets

2009-08-09T11:43:00.001-07:00

Inspired by architectural styling, the EDGE aquarium by Hagen, a 23 L (6 US Gal) 3 dimensional water cube provides a unique visual effect capturing emotion and serenity within a contemporary setting. Sealed glass top provides high definition viewing and reduces evaporation for less maintenance. Retractable halogen lighting system, suitable for aquatic plants and casts a unique shimmering effect. Removable cover for easy aquarium and filter access. Overhead ventilation grill dissipates lamp heat and avoids moisture. Powerful easy to use EDGE filter with 3 stage filtration to ensure clear water and a healthy environment. Includes:

* Fluval EDGE 23 Liter (6 US gal.) 6 sided closed top glass aquarium. * 2 x 10 watt Low Voltage Halogen Lighting system. * 30 ml Nutrafin Aqua Plus Water Conditioner. * 30ml Nutrafin Cycle Biological Aquarium Supplement. * Care Guide. * EDGE Clip-On Power Filter Specifications: * Filtration: 100 gph 3-stage mechanical, chemical and biological filtration. * Lighting: 20W (2-10W halogen bulbs) halogen light system. * Capacity: 6 gallons. * Dimensions: Total dimension (including Canopy) measures 16.9" x 13.7" x 14.3" high. * The Fluval Edge aquarium measures 16.9" x 10.2" x 8.8" high.

Selection and Use of a Microscope for Aquarists

2009-08-09T11:26:00.000-07:00

The first thought that pops into many readers’ minds may be, “why bother?” This is exactly the intent of this article. We hope to establish for you, whether you have or might have a need for use of such an instrument. We’ll establish what your choices of microscopes are, how they function, and what purpose you, as an aquarist, may have for this tool. Some of this material is a compilation from various sources and some is based on personal experience. Specific sources are listed at the end of this article.

First, what is available out there? The answer to that question is another question. What do you need to accomplish? If you’re looking to gather more information about your aquarium environment, this is one way to do it. Visual information can provide us with facts that we can respond to. The first thing most of us do when we walk into a room, which has one or more aquariums, is to take a closer look at them. To look at what types of fish are in the tanks, what types of plants are planted, and the condition of the fish, plants, or water. In other words, what can we see! Our limit, to what we can see, is our eye. We frequently aid (especially as we get older) our eyes with prescription glasses or magnifying glasses. Those of us that do extremely fine detail work use a loupe or binocular magnifier. These are the instruments that are simple, inexpensive, and usually easy to use. They let us take that closer look to get the information we’re after. The lenses we use to see and identify what we’re looking at, come in a variety of choices. Selection of your lens type is usually determined by the level of magnification needed to accomplish your job. As the magnification and quality level rise, so does the cost. Each level of capability satisfies its purpose. The microscope, the compound optical version, is only a lens design to help us see items closer up. Its capability for magnification covers the range of 20-1000X. The electron microscope versions which go beyond 1000X will not be discussed. The compound light microscope then is what we’re concentrating on. It answers the question, “why bother?” If you have the desire to take a closer look at this aquatic environment, a need to identify what might not be normally visible, then you probably would benefit from using a microscope.

Selection of your microscope will again be based on your individual needs. The toy versions for children are probably the reason that many people don’t proceed further. Any optical instrument is only as good as the precision and quality of the glass it uses. A microscope should be a lifetime investment. Buy the best you can afford to do the job you want or may want to do. Look for the magnification range you need in selecting your eyepieces and objectives. Stick with those models that conform to one of the best recognized standard configurations. These are the Deutsche Industrie Norm (DIN), most common, or Japanese Standard (JIS). Stick with DIN standard components and you’ll have the best of all worlds. This will enable you to select a greater variety of components for your microscope that will be interchangeable and expand your capabilities. A typical compound microscope consists of these basic components: eyepiece(ocular), tube, objective, stage, stand, condenser, and light source. Look at a drawing or photo of a typical compound microscope and you will have no problem in identifying these parts.

Presented is a Carl Zeiss Standard model trinocular microscope. Viewing the image is somewhat self explanatory. The double eyepieces, side by side, provide a binocular view and the third ocular provides a monocular view for either another viewer or photography, hence the trinocular label. The objectives are mounted on a turret that holds up to five objective lenses that normally provide differing magnifications that are selected by moving the turret to the desired lens. The tube in this case is provided through optical means and the stage is the part that holds the microscope slide, in this case, held in place by a movable slide adjuster mounted on the stage. The condenser is just below the stage and the light source can be seen at the bottom right rear of the stand. There also is a choice in variety for each of these items. Eyepieces can be monocular, binocular, or trinocular versions. The monocular variety is the least expensive, since it uses only one eyepiece. The types of eyepieces can be Huygenian, Ramsden, Kellner, and Periplan. Each succeeding class of optics increases in quality and cost. Objectives also are available in the degree of optical correction available. These are achromatic, semi-plan, and planar. Achromatic objectives provide a flat field of view in about 65% of the center of the image and are most common. Ramsden eyepieces, often called Wide-Field, are usually used with the achromatic objectives at higher power. A look at a catalog listing selection will quickly establish what you wish or need to afford. The best way to go, is to buy a microscope that comes as a system, so you can expand your choices later. An eyepiece in 10X Wide- Field and turret arrangement with your selection of objectives in 4X, 10X, 40X, and 100X will get you started for most purposes. This gives you the capability of 40X, 100X, 400X, and 1000X. Most of your aquarium work will be done between 40X and 400X. 1000X(oil immersion) is used for more advanced cellular and bacterial work. The stage of your microscope can be plain with spring clips to hold your glass slide or have a mechanical stage that adjusts for the short distances a slide is normally moved. For bright field illumination, the light source can be external, using a mirror to direct the light to the slide, or be built into the base to provide illumination. With either light arrangement, alternate types of lighting may be desired. This could be the basis of another article in itself. The question is, at this point, what should one consider as the basic minimum setup?
Consider these points:

1 - Make sure that the microscope has a solid stand, with fine and coarse focusing and a monocular tube.

2 - The eyepiece should be 10X to start, with a selection of 5X, 15X, and 20X oculars added as needed.

3 - A turret holding at least three objectives, achromatic in 4X, 10X, and 40X will be sufficient to start.

4 - The stage can be equipped with only removable spring clips or have a mechanical stage to allow more precise placement of the slide. Removable mechanical stages can be added later if desired. This option starts at about $70.00 and goes up in price based on capabilities.

5 - A light source, such as a microscope lamp or even a simple high intensity desk lamp, unless the illumination is built in.

6 - Beneath the stage should be a condenser lense that can be focused to properly illuminate the slide. A diaphragm to control light intensity and a filter holder should be part of this package.

A basic package for the above, new from a catalog or outlet, will start at about $200.00 and go up in cost based on quality, choice of lenses, and other options. A good used microscope can be found around college campuses and in papers like the “Trading Times” and at on-line auctions like eBay. This would enable you to buy a better quality instrument at the same or lower cost than a new one. Going up in price range will obtain a binocular, four objective turret, a mechanical stage with built-in illumination, microscope starting at about $500.00 used. A good quality microscope of this variety, brand new, will start at about $800.00 and rapidly escalate based on optics and brand name. Brand names like AO(American Optical), B&L(Bausch & Lomb), and Spencer are American brands, with Zeiss, Leitz, and Wild being European. Japanese brands like Nikon, Olympus, Myoda are popular and sometimes will cost less than the European brands. Russian optics are another source of decent quality and are usually priced right. Look for a system that will allow you to expand your capabilities and hold its value, should you decide to sell.

So now that you’ve selected what you think is the best microscope for you, what do you do with it? You will have to use it and acquire some experience in developing your techniques. Books and manuals are available in most libraries covering just about all aspects of microscopy you may want to learn. Concentrate on developing your basic skills. Use your microscope for checking the quality of water, identify the microscopic plants and creatures that inhabit your aquarium along with your fish. If you have baby fish, which require live food, check for paramecia, rotifers, daphnia, and other micro food cultures in your aquaria. Keep tabs on how the cultures are doing. See what other helpful or detrimental organisms are present. Do you keep egg layers? Pluck an egg and put it under your lens to see if it is fertile. If you see no life(movement) in the egg, it is not fertile. Then just continue with your process of elimination to establish what caused the infertility. Do you have health problems with your fish, plants, or snails? Check to see what’s different with the healthy versus the unhealthy. Identify your problem hosts so you can take a targeted approach to correcting your situation.

Fish Diseases

2009-08-09T11:22:00.000-07:00

Causes

Q: Why is my fish sick and how do I prevent more illness?
A: Probably 80-90% of diseases in captive fish can be prevented by avoiding stress. Stress weakens fishes' immune systems, leading to increased susceptibility to disease. Actually, diseases and pathogens are almost always present in tanks, but a healthy fish's immune system will prevent them from being a problem. Some of the most common stressors for captive fish are:

• Poor water quality: measurable ammonia or nitrites, or very high nitrates.

• The water temperature is fluctuating more than 2 deg F/day

• Incompatible species in the tank.

• Too many fish in the tank (5 adult angelfish in 10g tank).

• The tank is too small for the fish (foot long fish in 10g tank).

• The water is too warm or too cold for the species (goldfish vs. tropicals).

• Wrong pH for species (Discus vs. African cichlids)

• pH fluctuations greater than 0.2 units/day.

• Insufficient cover or hiding places present.

• Wrong water hardness for the species (Discus vs. African cichlids).

• Insufficient oxygen in the water.

• Improper fish nutrition (wrong food, foods not varied).

Keeping your tank free of disease

Q: Do I need a quarantine tank for new fish?

A: Quarantining new fish is a good habit for all aquaria, but is not absolutely necessary for success. Quarantining is simply keeping a fish in a separate tank for long enough to be certain that it is disease free. Many beginners do fine without a quarantine tank, and object to the cost of another setup. A quarantine tank does cost more, but if a hobbyist has hundreds of dollars invested in fish, it is cheaper to have a separate quarantine tank than to replace fish killed by a newly introduced disease. Also, many of us become attached to fish and do not want to expose our pets to diseases from newcomers, no matter what the cost.

The purpose of quarantining is to avoid introducing new diseases to a stable system, and to be able to better observe new fish for signs of disease. A quarantine tank can also double as a hospital tank for sick fish. Hospital tanks are good because they lower the cost of using medicines and keep diseased fish separate from healthy ones. Quarantine is probably most important for saltwater tanks/reef systems because of the difficulty of treating diseases, or wild-caught freshwater fish because they are probably not disease-free. Quarantining itself can stress fish so be sure quarantine is as stress-free as possible.

To set up a quarantine or hospital tank:

• Keep an extra filter -- a sponge filter is ideal -- or piece of filter floss in an established tank, so that you don't have to keep the quarantine tank set up at all times. Some people choose instead to keep the filter going with guppies or danios (for freshwater) or mollies (for saltwater).

• If you don't keep the tank running, use old tank water to fill the tank. So: old tank water + established filter = instant established tank.

• Add a spare airpump and heater. If you haven't messed with the heater during storage, it should come to wherever you had it last time.

• Consider using Amquel or equivalent when medicating the tank in case the biological filter bacteria are sensitive to the medication. Sick fish are especially susceptible to ammonia. (Note that ammonia which has been bound with Amquel still shows up on a nessler ammonia test. So, if you are planning on testing for ammonia in that tank, you need to use a salicylate ammonia test.)

• For a hospital tank, do small, frequent water changes (even every day).

If possible, quarantine all of your new fish for about three weeks. During that time, gradually acclimate the fish to your tank's parameters: hardness, pH, salinity, temperature, etc., and watch for and treat any signs of disease. Do not medicate quarantined fish ``just in case.'' Only treat evident, definitely identified diseases. Treating all quarantined fish with a bunch of medicines will just lead to weakened fish and antibiotic resistant bacteria.

Once you are done with the quarantine, if you treated any especially nasty diseases, it is good to disinfect the tank and reestablish the filter. Chlorine bleach or strong saltwater (for freshwater) work well. Be sure all traces of bleach are rinsed off. Another good disinfectant is potassium permanganate (Jungle's Clear Water is one commercial way to get it).

If you choose not to quarantine, do not add store water to your tank with the new fish.

Q: How about quarantining plants?

A: Plants can carry diseases into a tank, too. It is a good idea to disinfect new plants if there were fish in the tank with them at the store.

Q: How do I avoid introducing diseases in the first place?

A: Never buy sick fish from a store. Especially do not buy fish or plants from a tank if *any* fish in the tank shows any signs of disease or if there is medicine in the water (water is colored yellow, green, or blue). Store people may say the fish are fine, but if they were, why is the medicine in the tank? Also ask how long the fish have been in the store. New arrivals may be carrying diseases that have not shown up yet. It is better to wait a couple of weeks before purchasing the fish. If you must have a fish that just came in, be especially sure to quarantine it properly.

Diagnosis/common diseases or: How do I know the fish is sick?

Most important: watch your fish and know what their normal behavior and appearance is. If you don't know what normal is, you can't know what sick is.

Bad signs:

• Clamped fins (fins are held abnormally close to body)

• The fish refuses its usual food for more than 2 days.

• There are visible spots, lesions, or white patches on the fish.

• The fish gasps at the surface of the water.

• The fish floats, sinks, whirls, or swims sideways.

• The fish shimmies (moves from side to side without going forward).

• A normally active fish is still.

• A normally still fish is very active.

• The fish suddenly bloats up, and it's not due to eggs or young.

• The fish is scratching against tank decorations.

Aquarium medications to keep on hand

I suggest setting up a fish medicine cabinet. It seems like fish always get sick when the store is closed.The following list of items should be kept on hand by all home aquariusts:

• Water quality test kits: pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate

• Aquarium salt (NOT table salt. Most table salts contain additives to keep them from clumping. Kosher or rock salt is OK).

• Malachite green/formalin ich remedy

• Methylene blue

• Chlorine bleach for disinfection

• Maybe one antibiotic (Kaynamycin or Furanace)

• Antibiotic-containing food

• Copper remedy for parasites

And for fish big enough to handle:

• Q-tips

• Malachite green or mercurochrome

Common diseases/problems or What's wrong with my fish?

Bad water quality
Fish are gasping at the surface, or very inactive, but there are not visible lesions when it first starts. Their fins may be clamped. Many fish of different species are affected, and possibly the whole tank. If the water has been bad for a while, the fish may have finrot, or streaks of blood in their fins.

• If fish are gasping at the surface, or have purple gills: high ammonia or low dissolved O2 may be the problem; test ammonia, dissolved O2

• If the main symptom is inactivity: test nitrites, pH, dissolved 02, nitrates

Depending on your test results, try the following:
Ammonia

Change enough of the water to reduce ammonia levels to 1-2 ppm for freshwater or below 1 ppm for saltwater. If that means changing more than a third of the water, be sure the water you add is the same temperature, salinity, hardness and pH of the tank water. It is also okay to do multiple smaller water changes for a few days. Aerate, and make sure pH is at or below 7.0 for freshwater tanks. In addition to or instead of changing water, you can also add a dose of AmQuel to give fish immediate relief. Find out why ammonia is present and correct the problem.

Nitrites

Change enough of the water to bring nitrites down to below 2 ppm (as with ammonia, if this is a lot of water, match water parameters or do multiple water changes), add 1 tbsp/gallon salt (not all fish may tolerate this much -- start out with 1 tsp), and add supplemental aeration. Find out why the nitrite levels are high and correct the problem.

Nitrates

Change water and clean the filter. If your filter is dirty, there is more waste material present to break down into nitrate. Start feeding less and changing water more often.

Low oxygen

Run an airstone. If this helps a lot, the fish probably don't have enough oxygen in the water. Your tank may need cleaning, fewer fish, or additional water movement at the surface from a powerhead, airstone, or filter.

Improper pH

If pH is too low: make sure carbonate buffering is adequate -- at least 5dKH. In general, adding baking soda at 1 tsp. per 30 gal. raises dKH about 2 degrees. For a 10-20g tank that just needs the pH a little higher, try about a quarter teaspoonful. If that isn't enough, add up to a teaspoonful more. You can scale this up to 1 tsp/30 gal for larger tanks. If the pH is still too low and the KH is at least 5-6 dKH, clean the tank. For long-term buffering in saltwater and alkaline freshwater systems, add crushed coral. If pH is too high, pH down (phosphoric acid) can be added. Don't rely on this stuff, except in extreme situations like ammonia poisoning because it can cause excessive algal growth. To lower pH long-term, filter over peat, or use distilled or deionized water mixed with your tapwater.

Freshwater Ich

Symptoms: Fish look like they have little white salt grains on them and may scratch against objects in the tank.

White spot disease (Ichthyopthirius multifiliis) is caused by a protozoan with a life cycle that includes a free-living stage. Ich grows on a fish --> it falls off and attaches to gravel or tank glass --> it reproduces to MANY parasites --> these swarmers then attach to other fish. If the swarmers do not find a fish host, they die in about 3 days (depending on the water temperature).

Therefore, to treat it, medicine must be added to the display tank to kill free-living parasites. If fish are removed to quarantine, parasites living in the tank will escape the treatment -- unless ALL fish are removed for about a week in freshwater or three weeks in saltwater systems. In a reef tank, where invertebrates are sensitive to ich medications, removing the fish is the only option. Some people think that ich is probably dormant in most tanks. It is most often triggered by temperature fluctuations.

Remedy: For most fish, use a medication with formalin and malachite green. These are the active ingredients in many ich medications at fish shops. Some products are Kordon's Rid Ich and Aquarium Products' Quick Cure. Just read the label and you may find others. Check for temperature fluctuations in the tank and fix them to avoid recurrences. Note that tetras can be a little sensitive to malachite green, so use it at half the dose.

Use these products as directed (usually a daily dose) until all of the fish are spot-free. Then dose every three days for a total of four more doses. This will kill any free-swimming parasites as they hatch out of cysts.

Another remedy is to raise the tank temperature to about 90 deg F and add 1 tsp/gallon salt to the water. Not all fish tolerate this.

Finally, one can treat ich with a ``transfer method.'' Fish are moved daily into a different tank with clean, conditioned, warmed water. Parasites that came off of the fish are left behind in the tank. After moving the fish daily for a week, the fish (presumably cured) can be put back into the main tank. The disadvantage of this method is that it stresses both fish and fishkeeper.

Fin rot

Fishes' fins turn whitish and die back. Fin rot often follows damage or injury. It can also be caused by poor water quality.

Remedy: First, fix the water and remove any fin-nipping fish. Change some water (25% is good) and add 1 tsp/gallon salt to promote healing. If bad water quality or an aggressive tankmate was the problem, that should be adequate. Healing will begin within a couple of days.

If it worsens, decide first whether it's fungal or bacterial. Fungal finrot looks like clumps of cotton on the fins and usually follows injury. It is commonly seen in African cichlids or fish that have injured themselves against decorations. Bacterial finrot is whitish, but not cottony (unless it's columnaris), and can be contagious. The fish then need to be removed from the tank and medicated.

Fungus: For fish large enough to handle, catch the fish, and dab malachite green directly on the fungus with a Q-tip. This is extremely effective. Repeat treatments may be necessary.

For small fish, a commercial fungicide such as Maroxy may work. For severe infestations, try a bath in methylene blue (enough so you can barely see the fish) until the fungus turns blue or for 20 min. If you add methylene blue directly to a tank, you will kill plants and trash your biological filter.

Bacterial: Antibiotic treatment in a quarantine tank. This is stressful for the fish, and doesn't always work, so be sure of what you are doing before you attempt it. If the fish is still eating, the best bet is an antibiotic food. Tetra makes one that works well -- just buy the one for bacterial diseases and follow the directions on the can.

If the fish is not eating, a bath treatment is necessary. A combination of Kaynamycin and Furanace usually works, especially for Columnaris. Again, treat in a separate tank and aerate heavily.

Injuries

Cichlids and other ``scrappy'' fish may sustain injuries that are severe enough to draw blood from fighting. Other fish may run into tank decorations, walls, or rocks.

Larger fish can be netted and their injuries dabbed with mercurochrome (available at drug stores) or Betadine (iodine-based antibiotic also available at drug stores) to help prevent infection. Be sure to keep these chemicals off of the gills and eyes. For really small fish, put the affected fish in dilute methylene blue (pale blue) and 1 tsp/gallon salt in a separate tank. If you want to keep the fish in the main tank just add salt, as methylene blue will trash your biological filter.

Watch the fish to be sure injuries are healing cleanly, and repeat the mercurochrome dosage if necessary. If finrot or fungus sets in, see the above section on finrot.

Dropsy

Fish swells up like a balloon and may show popeyes. It may recover with no treatment and may die despite it. The swelling is because the fish is absorbing water faster than it can eliminate it, and it can be caused by many different problems. High nitrates are one thing to check. Internal bacterial infections, including fish TB, are other possibilities. If there are no water quality problems, you may want to attempt antibiotic treatment in a separate tank.

Head and Lateral Line Erosion (hole-in-head disease)

This disease can affect discus, other cichlids, and many saltwater fish. The fish develops holes in it's head and sometimes along its lateral line. Causes are unclear but as in any disease, stress and poor water quality likely play a role. Fish in planted tanks rarely get HLLE, which supports the nutrition idea, since fish can nibble on the plants and obtain extra nutrition. Untergasser also observes that the protozoan Hexamita can be found in the lesions. Untreated cases can eventually prove disfiguring or fatal.

Remedy: First, make sure water quality is optimal and reduce stress. Stopping carbon filtration may help as it can remove nutrients from the water. Then feed a vitamin-enriched food, paying particular attention to vitamin C supplementation.

For stubborn cases, some books suggest metronidazole (Flagyl) to eliminate Hexamita (a mildly pathogenic protozoan) from the lesions. Your mileage may vary with that one. Metrozole and Hex-a-mit are commercial medications with metronidazole.

Swim bladder disorders

Fish floats upside-down or sideways. This is particularly common in fancy goldfish because of their bizarre body shapes. Dry food eaten quickly swells up in the fish's intestine and keeps the fish from controlling its swim bladder properly.

To help, feed the fish pre-soaked or gel-based foods. Green foods are also helpful; peas in particular.

As with finrot, these disorders can also be caused by bacterial infection. Treatment is much the same. Use antibiotic food if the fish is eating, or add antibiotic to the water in a quarantine tank if the fish is too sick to eat.

Large external parasites (as opposed to ich)

Add a copper remedy to the tank and monitor it with a copper test kit. Also, Mardel's Maroxy works well. For anchor worms or leeches on pond fish, remove them from the affected fish with tweezers and swab the area with mercurochrome to prevent infection.

Velvet

Fish look like they have been finely dusted with flecks of gold. Fins may be clamped and the fish may shimmy.

Treat with an anti-parasitic medication such as copper or formalin/malachite green.